"A short but satisfying crack climb in Boulder Canyon, this 5.9 route delivers immediate technical moves before easing off. Ideal as a warm-up or quick challenge, it offers solid protection and a striking granite face marked with patches of lichen."
Cenotaph Crag’s 5.9 Crack Right of 5.8 Crack delivers a quick, focused test of crack climbing technique in Boulder Canyon’s rugged landscape. This short, 40-foot route demands attention immediately—its key challenge sits within the first 10 feet, where straddling the crux will push your finger strength and body positioning. Beyond this initial challenge, the crack mellows, allowing climbers to relax into a rhythm with improved hand jams and occasional face holds that pepper the climb. The crack’s angle and size offer a more compelling line compared to the nearby 5.8 Crack, though patches of lichen patch the rock, reminding you to choose your holds carefully and maintain focus.
Though this route isn’t expansive, it fits perfectly as a warm-up when you’re already soaking up the high desert air of Cenotaph Crag, perched above Boulder. The wall’s texture and subtle angles make for diverse moves within a confined vertical stretch, enticing climbers seeking a taste of technical crack climbing without committing to a long day. Protection is straightforward yet requires some thoughtful gear placement—standard cams up through a #4 Camalot will keep you safe, while a #5 can be handy but isn’t essential.
Set against Boulder Canyon’s open skies and evergreen surroundings, the climb invites you to engage with the rock directly: the rough granite challenges grip, while nearby face holds expand your options. Approaching this climb involves a manageable walk-in on maintained trails, with plenty of daylight and fresh breezes to keep the effort refreshing. While the lichen veils parts of the crack, that only adds to the sense of discovery, forcing you to test your skill at reading subtle features on the wall.
If you’re aiming for a short but stimulating lead that sharpens crack technique and rewards with Boulder’s signature mountain backdrop, this route fits the bill. Expect a brisk experience, practical for spring through fall climbing days when the sun hits the crag just right and rock temperatures stay pleasant. Remember to prep your rack with cams meticulously and approach the crux with patience—this little line packs more punch in its 40 feet than its brevity suggests.
Beware of the lichen covering parts of the crack—this can reduce friction and hide fragile rock sections. Test all holds before committing your weight. The anchor at the top is solid, but ensure placements are properly threaded, especially with modest gear sizes.
Start strong: the crux is low and requires precise hand jams amidst lichen patches.
Use nearby face holds to ease progression once past the crux.
Approach via the well-marked trail to Cenotaph Crag; allow 15-20 minutes from the parking area.
Afternoon climbs benefit from sun exposure, keeping holds dry and warm.
Carry a standard trad rack featuring cams up to a #4 Camalot for reliable placements. While a #5 Camalot may prove useful, it’s not critical here. Build your anchor on the solid top ledge.
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