HomeClimbing5.9 Crack

5.9 Crack at The Bank, Shelf Road

Canon City, Colorado United States
thin crack
balancy
small pro
crowd-free
sun-exposed
short pitch
scramble exit
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
5.9 Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A slim 40-foot crack line perched on a ledge above Back to the Future Wall, this 5.9 trad climb challenges you with balance-driven moves and delicate jams. It’s a quiet, underrated route that rewards focus and makes a great end-of-day send in the Shelf Road area."

5.9 Crack at The Bank, Shelf Road

Positioned on a ledge just above and left of the famous Back to the Future Wall, this 40-foot 5.9 crack route offers a refreshing, underappreciated challenge on Shelf Road, near Canon City, Colorado. The route threads a slender crack, just right of the Moaner climb, carving a subtle line that rewards careful footwork and thoughtful body positioning. Unlike the more obvious, aggressive lines nearby, this climb invites you to work its delicate rhythm, balancing mostly on face holds on either side of the crack and slipping in jams where the natural breaks allow.

You won't find a defining crux here, but expect sustained, balance-focused movement that demands steady focus from start to finish. The stances for placing protection are limited and require some finesse to ensure reliable placements when slipping in light cams or stoppers. The rock’s texture varies between smooth faces and tucked cracks that both tease and test your ability to read the wall.

As the pitch nears its end, the easiest exit is to rail left toward the anchors used by Moaner, offering a secure finish and clear rappel points. Alternatively, for those wanting a bit of exploration, a scramble to a nearby tree serves as an exit route, but be ready for uneven footing. This climb feels more demanding than its grade suggests, especially if you’ve already worked through several routes on the wall and want to squeeze in a final challenge before descending.

The Bank area itself is known for its sunny exposure and spectacular views of the canyon around Canon City. It’s a good afternoon route when the light softens but the rock remains warm to the touch. Given its shorter length and moderate difficulty, this climb is ideal for trad climbers building confidence on crack techniques or those looking to extend their day after tackling some of Shelf Road’s steeper, longer lines.

Planning your day here means packing a light rack focused on small to medium nuts and cams—large gear won’t find much purchase. Bring good climbing shoes with sticky rubber for the face holds, a helmet for loose blocks on the approach scramble, and prepare for a moderate walk-in along dusty, often sun-exposed trail paths. Water and sunscreen are must-haves, especially in warmer months, as shade is limited.

This route’s low traffic and quiet setting make it a solid pick when you want to avoid crowds yet stay close to the heart of Shelf Road’s climbing hub. It’s a modest but satisfying notch on any trad climber’s to-do list, a reminder that sometimes the smaller, less heralded cracks can offer the sharpest lessons in balance and finesse.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the ledge and approach requires caution; placements near the top tend to be limited, so double-check gear security. The scramble exit can be tricky and uneven, so take your time descending off-route.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach the ledge carefully; some sections have loose rock.

Bring shoes with sticky rubber for secure foot placements on face holds.

Plan your protection placements ahead as placements can be tricky and sparse.

Use the end of the route to rail left to Moaner’s anchors for a safer rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 crack feels a bit stiffer than many comparably rated routes because it relies on balance over brute power, with no single intense crux but sustained technical moves. Climbers familiar with Shelf Road’s more powerful cracks will find this route demands patience and precise footwork rather than raw strength.

Gear Requirements

A minimal rack of stoppers and small hand-sized cams covers the protection needs here. Careful placement is necessary due to few good stances for gear. Anchors are best reached by moving left to Moaner's bolts or by top-out scramble to a tree.

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Tags

thin crack
balancy
small pro
crowd-free
sun-exposed
short pitch
scramble exit