".50 Cal Crack delivers a two-pitch trad climb that threads exposed cracks and scrambling gullies on .50 Cal Tower. Offering a blend of technical hand jams and desert vistas, this route is both a skill builder and a gateway to High Desert adventure."
Rising boldly from the High Desert expanse of California, .50 Cal Crack on .50 Cal Tower offers a compelling introduction to trad climbing where rugged natural features command respect and precise technique. This two-pitch route skillfully threads a crack system that tests hand jams and foot placements alike, rewarding climbers with sweeping views of the arid landscape below. The first pitch starts with a straightforward 5.7 crack that passes a strikingly wedged .50 caliber bullet embedded near the top, a curious landmark that visually punctuates the climb. This pitch culminates at a solid ledge secured by sling anchors, positioned perfectly for a 60m rope belay.
The ascent continues with an intricate scramble over boulders and into a left-draining gulley. Here, the terrain shifts, challenging the climber to negotiate loose rock and shifting footing before reaching the second pitch proper. Starting with a brief lie-back crack, the exposure rises as you step across a void to engage a steeper face-splitting crack graded at 5.8—a technical transition that demands control and confidence. This section concludes with easy 3rd class scrambling over boulders, where everything feels exposed yet manageable, ending at a natural anchor point secured with slings.
The environment around .50 Cal Tower is classic High Desert: sun-bleached rocks heated by the relentless California sun, sparse but hardy brush clinging to crevices, and a breeze that carries the distant scrub and dust. The approach immerses you in vast, open spaces that push you to focus on the rock beneath your feet while inviting quiet moments to absorb the stark beauty and silence of the desert.
Protection here requires a setup that covers small to large cams, with doubles up to 2 inches and singles of 3 and 4-inch sizes recommended. The crack features placements that can range from straightforward to fiddly, emphasizing solid gear judgment and placement skill. Expect some sections where pro placements are good but require attention to detail.
Approaching .50 Cal Crack involves negotiating a sometimes uneven trail through high desert terrain, with about 45 minutes of hiking from the parking area. The GPS coordinates at 35.40419 latitude and -116.60443 longitude will guide you to the route's base. Best climbed in mild seasons—spring and fall provide temperate conditions before the desert heat intensifies.
Given the trad nature and exposure, climbers should be prepared with sturdy footwear, ample water, and sun protection. Quickdraws and slings for anchors are essential, as fixed gear is limited. Descending involves careful down-climbing over the boulder field and rappelling or walking off, depending on your group's preference and conditions on the day.
Whether you’re honing crack skills or seeking a solid high desert trad climb that balances technical moves with striking desert vistas, .50 Cal Crack invites you to test your mettle and enjoy an adventure etched in rock and sun-drenched silence.
Loose rock on the approach and in the gulley requires careful footing. The exposed step across the void on pitch two calls for sure-footed moves and solid protection. Sling anchors are solid but inspect carefully before trusting.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection—the desert sun hits hard here.
Hike in early morning to avoid midday heat and enjoy cooler rock surfaces.
Check your anchor gear carefully; sling anchors are used at both belay stations.
Descend with caution: downclimbing over loose boulders requires attention.
Requires doubles of cams up to 2 inches and singles in the 3 and 4-inch range. Expect solid but sometimes fussy placements in a mix of finger to wider cracks.
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