"3 Stone Place challenges climbers with six sustained pitches of technical 5.11 climbing on El Potrero Chico’s iconic Zapatista Wall. This lengthy 750-foot route demands endurance, precise gear management, and sharp focus amidst the steep limestone canyon of Northern Mexico."
Stretching over 750 feet with six distinct pitches, 3 Stone Place stands as a formidable challenge on the Zapatista Wall within El Potrero Chico’s famed El Toro sector. Right from the first pitch, this climb demands respect—a crisp 5.11c start announces a serious increase in difficulty compared to nearby routes like Satori, setting the tone for what’s to come. The rock beneath your fingers offers the gritty, textured welcome typical of El Potrero Chico’s limestone cliffs, where every hold’s edge feels alive, daring you to trust your grip and body placement.
As you ascend, the route unfolds through sustained sequences climbing textured walls punctuated by occasional rests that invite you to catch your breath and gaze upward at the towering spires around you. The pitches stretch up to 50 meters long, inviting an elongated rhythm between gear placements and movements. Pitch three, the crux at 5.11d, makes you feel the route’s full power, a technical dance requiring precision and stamina. The rock’s character varies subtly, sometimes less featured and other times dotted with sharp edges and small pockets, demanding thoughtful footwork and steady hands.
Protection relies entirely on fixed bolts—20 in total—carefully spaced but necessitating a full rack of quickdraws, ideally 18 to 20, to keep your leads efficient. Two ropes are a must for both belaying and the descent, as rappels require attention for loose rock hazards, especially on the second rap where a short traverse to the left leads you securely down.
El Potrero Chico offers more than just vertical relief; the zone is steeped in raw natural energy. Warm sunlight hits the wall in the late morning, casting bright highlights and deep shadows that offer both relief and challenge, depending on time and weather. A dry mountain breeze often sweeps through the canyon, sharpen the senses and cooling exertion.
This is a route for climbers ready for sustained, physical pitches combined with technical demands. The exposure amplifies the satisfaction of reaching each anchor, with sweeping views of Northern Mexico stretching out under a vast sky. Whether you’re pushing your limits or sharpening your multi-pitch lead skills, 3 Stone Place demands focus, preparation, and respect for the rock’s temperament.
To approach, access the base from the well-worn trails of El Toro, a roughly 15-minute trek over rocky terrain where sturdy shoes and packing water are essential. The trail can be warm and dry, so timing your climb for early morning starts is advisable to avoid midday heat. The descent involves a series of rappels using dual ropes; moving left on the second rappel is crucial to avoid unstable rock sections.
Gear up with a full rack of quickdraws, two ropes for safe rappels, and a helmet to protect from occasional rockfall. Hydration and energy management will keep you steady through the sustained technical challenge.
3 Stone Place is not just a sport climb; it’s a deliberate engagement with one of Mexico’s premier limestone giants. Its length, sustained difficulty, and the setting’s striking beauty combine to create an experience that rewards preparation with exhilarating exposure and a strong sense of accomplishment.
Be vigilant for loose rock, especially during descent rappels. The second rappel requires a careful left traverse to avoid unstable terrain. Wearing a helmet on the route and approach is essential due to potential rockfall. The approach trail is rugged and exposed to sun, so prepare accordingly.
Start early to beat the midday heat and enjoy well-lit climbing conditions.
Bring at least two ropes for a safe and efficient descent via rappels.
Watch for loose rock on the second rappel; move left to avoid unstable terrain.
Pack plenty of water and sturdy footwear for the rocky approach trail.
The route features 20 bolts distributed over six pitches, requiring 18-20 quickdraws for a smooth lead. Two ropes are necessary for the descent, which includes a mandatory left traverse during the second rappel to avoid loose rock sections. Helmets are strongly recommended due to occasional rockfall.
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