HomeClimbing3 Amigos

3 Amigos: Sharp Trad Challenge at Highlander Crag

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
balancey
corner chimney
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
3 Amigos
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"3 Amigos tests climbers with a tight, balance-driven sequence featuring a tough finger crack finish. Perfect for those seeking a sharp 30-foot trad challenge on the edge of Squamish’s Highlander Crag."

3 Amigos: Sharp Trad Challenge at Highlander Crag

At the eastern edge of Highlander Crag, 3 Amigos presents a brief but intense test of technique and composure. This compact trad route stretches just 30 feet, yet it demands climbers to move with precision from the very first hold. The opening sequence forces an awkward body position as you slide into a tight corner chimney that seems to press in from both sides. The rock's rough texture offers reliable friction, but the confined space will have you feeling the rock’s grip on every muscle. Beyond the chimney, a surprisingly delicate, balance-focused move shifts your weight to the left, revealing access to an unforgiving finger crack that marks the climb’s finale. This narrow seam runs like a razor’s edge, requiring well-placed jamming skills and finger strength to make steady upward progress. Protection placements vary here, with small cams from small to 1 inch securing the route, plus one large stopper in the 4 to 5 inch range for added security. Bolts and rings anchor the top for peace of mind on the belay.

Situated in the towering wilderness around Squamish, British Columbia, Highlander Crag catches a sharp northern exposure, so the route stays cooler through afternoon hours, making it ideal for climbing in warmer seasons from late spring through early fall. The approach is straightforward though it winds through densely forested trails that hum with the soft rustling of pine needles and occasional bird calls. At just a single pitch, this route can fit comfortably into a half-day climbing itinerary or pair well with other climbs at the crag for a full day of sharp, technical trad climbing.

Climbers should prepare with specialized small to medium cams, ensuring quick draws and slings are ready to manage tricky placements in tight cracks, especially near the delicate finish. Footwear with sensitive edging will help maintain balance on the subtle foot chips that crop up during the leftward move. Hydration and layered clothing are advisable due to the cooler microclimate in the shaded aspects of the crag.

While the grading of 5.10d suggests considerable challenge, the climb rewards focused climbers with a tight sequence of moves that emphasize body tension and finger strength over brute force. It is a route that respects clear-headed patience. Overall, 3 Amigos offers a steep introduction to Squamish's sharper trad lines without the commitment of longer multi-pitch routes, making it an exciting warmup or a solid standalone objective for those who appreciate short routes with punch. Its accessible location on the southern edge of the crag ensures you can finish with views of the surrounding forest canopy and the distant peak contours sprawling northwest toward the coastal horizon.

Climber Safety

Watch for tight placements in the chimney section where gear can be tricky to position securely. The final finger crack demands careful attention to protection—avoid rushing or forcing jams to prevent slips or gear failure.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Wear precise edging shoes to navigate the delicate balance moves.

Start early for cooler, shaded climbing in warmer months.

Practice finger crack jamming techniques to tackle the finish smoothly.

Double-check small cam placements for security on the chimney and crack.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Graded 5.10d, 3 Amigos delivers a crisp challenge that feels true to the grade. The crux lies in the awkward entry into the chimney and the subsequent delicate move left into the finger crack finish. Compared to other Squamish trad routes, it leans toward the technical side without requiring sustained endurance, making the grade feel solid but not inflated.

Gear Requirements

Bring small to 1 inch cams for protection, including a single large piece around 4 to 5 inches. Fixed bolts and rings secure the top belay.

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Tags

balancey
corner chimney
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear