"Armchair Raver invites climbers to explore a subtle face route on Smoke Bluffs’ granite, threading small scar cracks with finesse. This single-pitch 5.6 trad climb balances accessible difficulty with essential gear skills, making it a solid choice for beginners and those refining crack technique."
Set on the rugged granite walls of The Smoke Bluffs, just a few steps left of the well-known Drowning Fish, the Armchair Raver offers a straightforward yet rewarding trad climb that invites climbers to test their skills on subtle crack systems. This single-pitch route moves along small scar cracks and delicate face holds, demanding careful footwork and precise gear placements. The rock’s texture breathes a quiet challenge, with each movement requiring focus as you thread small cams—primarily sizes 0.75 and smaller—into the narrow cracks that guard your ascent.
The approach to this climb is approachable, starting in the bustling entrance of Smoke Bluffs, a climbing area known for its friendly access and diverse route offerings. Here, the pine-scented air carries the faint buzz of nearby climbers, while the smooth granite walls rise above in warm caramel tones, sunlit in the afternoon but offering shade and respite by late day. Expect the steep face to offer moderate friction, though the sparsity of large holds means steady balance and steady breathing matter more than brute strength.
Armchair Raver’s 5.6 rating represents a manageable step for those breaking into trad climbing or looking for a confident warm-up on smaller protection. The route’s moderate difficulty masks its demand for clean placements and movement precision, giving a sense of satisfaction without overwhelming less experienced climbers. The proximity to Squamish’s town center, just a short drive away, means logistics are simple, but the climb’s quiet nature ensures a peaceful moment away from crowds.
Gear up with a rack heavy on small cams, keeping fingers nimble and feet ready for smearing and edging. Dry shoes with good grip will serve well on the face, and a helmet is advised given the rocky niche below. Seasonal timing favors spring through early fall when drier weather preserves the rock’s friction and the surrounding forest is lush yet not overgrown. Consider mornings or late afternoons to avoid the heat of midday sun on the south-facing wall.
Whether you’re honing basic trad skills or savoring a crisp climb in a celebrated area, Armchair Raver offers an inviting blend of technical tidiness and approachable exposure. It rewards steady effort with a satisfying sense of flow, as if the granite itself nudges you forward, encouraging mindful movement and measured commitment. Pack plenty of water, watch weather forecasts carefully, and prepare for a climb that balances simplicity with meaningful challenge.
Small scar cracks limit gear options to smaller cams, so ensuring good placements is critical. Stay attentive to your pro and avoid relying on marginal placements. The rock surface can be polished in spots, especially after wet weather, increasing the need for cautious footwork.
Approach from the main Smoke Bluffs trailhead on 2nd Avenue; clear signage guides you directly to the base of the climb.
Morning or late afternoon climbs avoid the hotter sun on the south-facing granite wall.
Wear shoes with a sticky rubber sole to get the most out of the subtle edges and smears.
Check the weather forecast for dry conditions—granite becomes slick when damp and increases the risk of slips.
Bring small cams 0.75 and smaller to protect the narrow scar cracks. A light rack geared for small gear is essential to safely secure the route’s delicate placements.
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