HomeClimbing2 of America's Most Wanted

2 of America's Most Wanted: A Direct Line on Gangsta Wall

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
trad
single pitch
granite face
echo lakes
technical placements
midgrade
Lake Tahoe
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
2 of America's Most Wanted
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A direct and focused trad climb on Gangsta Wall near Echo Lakes, '2 of America's Most Wanted' stretches the skills of the attentive climber with steady granite and thoughtful placements. Perfect for those ready to engage with Lake Tahoe’s solid granite in a brief but demanding pitch."

2 of America's Most Wanted: A Direct Line on Gangsta Wall

At the heart of the rugged Gangsta Wall, overlooking the pristine Blue Echo Lakes near Lake Tahoe, lies a climb that demands focus and a steady rack: 2 of America's Most Wanted. This single-pitch trad route begins at the same starting point as the famed 'Chop Your Dome Off!' but veers with purpose—eschewing the rightward traverse to stake a more direct and demanding ascent. The vertical face rises steadily, carved from solid granite that challenges you to read each crack and seam with unerring precision.

This route’s granite is unforgiving yet rewarding, with protection placements requiring an attentive eye as you slot pro up to 2 inches. The rock’s subtle texture provides enough friction underfoot, but slipping is never far from mind. As you climb, the surrounding environment offers a quiet counterpoint to the technical grind—the crisp mountain air carries whispers from the towering pines below, and the faint murmur of the alpine lake seems to dare you onward.

The approach to Gangsta Wall is straightforward but demands respect: an approximate 35-minute hike from the Echo Lakes trailhead along a well-marked trail. The path winds through a forest of evergreens and granite boulders, each step bringing you closer to the imposing wall that watches over Highway 50. Arriving at the base, the view unfolds—a perfect blend of wilderness and elevation—setting the stage for a climb that’s both practical and invigorating.

Despite its modest rating of 5.8, '2 of America's Most Wanted' is not to be underestimated. The sustained nature of the climb, combined with the commitment to protection placement, means this is a route that rewards methodical climbers comfortable with trad ethics and confident in their gear judgment. On a clear day, the climb offers a glimpse of Tahoe’s shimmering waters beyond, a steady reminder of the peaks and valleys carved into this iconic landscape.

When planning your ascent, pack lightweight gear focused on smaller cam sizes, ensuring quick placements without overburdening your rack. Footwear with solid edging and sticky rubber is essential to hold on those granite face smears. Timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon provides relief from the harsh midday sun, as Gangsta Wall faces mostly southeast and receives ample sunlight during the day. Always carry hydration, and be prepared for shifting alpine weather, which can turn swiftly around Echo Summit.

Beyond the climb itself, the descent is a straightforward walk off along a cairned route leading back to the trailhead, allowing you to quickly transition from vertical effort to refreshing downtime beside Echo Lakes. For those seeking a focused trad challenge with a sharp edge of exposure, this route provides a taste of the Lake Tahoe granite’s more subtle, technical virtues.

Climber Safety

Protection can be sparse in places, so plan your gear accordingly and double-check placements. The granite is mostly solid but expect occasional flakes and dusty ledges near the start. Approach weather with caution—afternoon thunderstorms hit often at altitude.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid direct sun on the southeast-facing wall during peak hours.

Hydrate well and pack more water than you expect for the alpine conditions.

Check weather forecasts carefully—storms can build quickly near Echo Summit.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber and good edging for the granite’s slab sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Though rated a moderate 5.8, this climb demands solid trad skills and attention to gear, making the grade feel more involved than a typical face climb. The exposure and sustained crack climbing can push the effort up slightly, comparable to other classic Lake Tahoe trad routes but with a sharper focus on protection placement.

Gear Requirements

Carry pro up to 2 inches for decent protection opportunities. Smaller cams and micro nuts work best; no fixed gear is present. Solid footwork and gear sense are critical for safety.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
granite face
echo lakes
technical placements
midgrade
Lake Tahoe