Climbing at The Bihedral: A Granite Haven in Boulder Canyon

The Bihedral: Boulder Canyon's Granite Sanctuary

Amidst the rugged expanse of Boulder Canyon, The Bihedral emerges as a climber's sanctuary, offering a harmonious blend of traditional and sport routes on its bullet-hard granite faces. Approximately seven miles west of downtown Boulder, this crag is distinguished by its prominent left-facing dihedral, a feature that has become a beacon for climbers seeking both challenge and serenity.

Climbing Overview

The Bihedral's granite presents a canvas of less-than-vertical terrain adorned with slopers and positive edges, providing climbers with a tactile and engaging experience. The crag is divided into distinct sections:

• The Bihedral (Upper Tier): Home to the iconic dihedral split by a prow midway, this area offers traditional routes that test climbers' technical prowess.

• The Riviera: Situated down and right of The Bihedral, this section features a mix of sport and trad routes, catering to a variety of skill levels.

• The Left Side: Located to the left of The Bihedral, this area provides additional routes that challenge climbers with unique features.

• The Lower Tier: Positioned below The Bihedral, this tier offers a selection of climbs that serve as both warm-ups and standalone challenges.

Notable Routes

• Bihedral Arete (5.10a): This two-pitch route ascends the striking arete adjacent to the main dihedral, combining bolted sections with opportunities for placing small to medium gear. The first pitch leads to a two-bolt anchor, while the second pitch continues up the exposed arete, offering exhilarating moves and panoramic views of the canyon.

• Dan's Line (5.8): A popular sport climb featuring less-than-vertical terrain on solid granite, this route is well-protected with bolts, making it an excellent choice for climbers seeking a moderate challenge.

• Group Therapy (5.8): Another favored sport route, Group Therapy offers climbers a series of engaging moves on quality rock, with ample protection throughout.

Access and Approach

To reach The Bihedral, drive approximately seven miles up Boulder Canyon Drive (CO-119) from Boulder. Parking is available in pullouts on both sides of the road near the crag. After parking, cross the road and follow a trail that ascends through a boulder field, leading to the base of the main dihedral. The approach is relatively short, taking about 10-15 minutes.

Seasonal Considerations

The south-facing orientation of The Bihedral allows for comfortable climbing conditions in cooler months, as the area receives ample sunlight. However, during warmer seasons, it's advisable to climb in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. Additionally, be aware of potential seasonal closures to protect nesting raptors; always check current access conditions before planning your visit.

Local Insights

• Protection: The Bihedral offers a mix of sport and traditional routes. For trad climbs, a standard rack with small to medium gear is recommended.

• Descent: Most routes are equipped with two-bolt anchors, facilitating straightforward rappels. For multi-pitch routes like Bihedral Arete, two ropes may be necessary for the descent.

• Etiquette: Given its popularity, especially on weekends, climbers are encouraged to be courteous, minimize environmental impact, and adhere to Leave No Trace principles.

The Bihedral's combination of accessible location, diverse climbing options, and stunning canyon vistas make it a must-visit destination for those seeking to experience the granite wonders of Boulder Canyon.