Adventure Collective

Ypsilon at Brown Cloud Rocks: A Thoughtful 5.9- Trad Adventure

Golden, Colorado United States
trad
5.9-
single-pitch
corner climb
stemmings
Colorado climbs
anchor bolts
technical footwork
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ypsilon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ypsilon offers a focused 35-foot 5.9- trad climb on Brown Cloud Rocks with two distinct finish options. Its balanced moves and technical placements provide a compact but meaningful test just outside Golden, Colorado."

Ypsilon at Brown Cloud Rocks: A Thoughtful 5.9- Trad Adventure

Ypsilon stands out on the rugged face of Brown Cloud Rocks near Golden, Colorado, carving a distinct path just left of the well-known Volobee (often called Jolobee). This short but engaging climb stretches about 35 feet and delivers a straightforward 5.9- challenge that demands both careful footwork and steady hand placements. The route begins with a bit of scrambling to reach the base of a textured dihedral corner — the rock here feels alive, its rough edges offering good friction, but with hints of looseness that command respect and caution.

As you ascend, a small nook reveals itself, dusted with recently loosened dirt that hints at nature’s restless influence. A broom would come in handy here, clearing the way for cleaner holds and a more confident climb. The route forks in a distinctive Y-shape; this split defines the character of the final push.

Veering left from the fork presents a subtle test of balance and strength, with restricted hand holds demanding precise stemming technique. The effort is rewarded at the summit block, where climbers can reach down to clip into anchors established for Bullet The Brown Cloud, linking the experience to nearby lines and opening possibilities for extended adventure.

Choosing the right branch leads to a more straightforward finish, with an additional protection piece before topping out just to the left of Volobee's anchors. The climbing here calls for cams up to a #3 Camalot, as securing gear can be intricate amid the corner’s natural features. Careful placement is key — protection feels solid when thoughtfully managed, but hasty gear choices can endanger both climber and leader.

This line serves as a heartfelt tribute to David Laurienti, whose untimely loss on Ypsilon in nearby Rocky Mountain National Park echoes through this route. That history adds a quiet weight to the climb, reminding all who attempt it to move deliberately and respectfully on the mountain’s edge.

Access is straightforward from North Table Mountain, just outside Golden, where the landscape shifts abruptly from forested trails to stark rock faces. The area offers simple hiking approaches with terrain that pushes you into focus and steady rhythm. Weather plays a role in timing your ascent, with clear, cool days offering the best conditions — mid-summer heat can bake the rock, while spring thaw may introduce slipperiness and loose debris. Plan accordingly, carry water, and choose shoes with dependable rubber for confident edging.

Whether you’re drawn by the route’s connection to local climbing history or the immediate challenge it poses, Ypsilon invites measured engagement. The line’s mix of scrambling, technical moves, and gear nuance makes it a worthy first climb or a solid warm-up for exploring the deeper reaches of Brown Cloud Rocks. Pay close attention to natural rock conditions and avoid over-caming the signature right sidepull hold. With thoughtful preparation, you’ll find this brief climb both rewarding and memorable — a clear window into Colorado’s grit and grace.

Climber Safety

Loose knobs near the split fork require careful negotiation — test holds before trusting them. Dirt-filled pockets might cause slipping, so cleaning these before the climb enhances safety and performance. Watch your gear placements near the sidepull to avoid unintentional dislodging.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Start with some easy scrambling to reach the dihedral base.

Avoid camming the right sidepull hold; it's better left free for movement.

Check for loose dirt in the small nook and consider bringing a brush to clean it.

Choose your finish carefully: left for a tougher, balance-focused move; right for an easier, gear-secure option.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels appropriate for the route’s straightforward moves, though the left finish introduces a subtle crux that demands precise stemming and body positioning. It’s a bit stiffer than a typical 5.8 but avoids over-grading. Compared to nearby Volobee, Ypsilon offers a cleaner line with fewer holds but similar technical demands.

Gear Requirements

Bring cams up to a #3 Camalot; do not block the right sidepull cam placement early on. The dihedral offers solid placements but avoid loose rock near the top fork. A broom could improve dirt-filled holds.

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Tags

trad
5.9-
single-pitch
corner climb
stemmings
Colorado climbs
anchor bolts
technical footwork