West Royce Mountain Ice: A Wild Adventure in New Hampshire's Deep North

Evans Notch, New Hampshire
remote
bushwhack approach
good for winter
wilderness
moderate ice
adventure
no fixed anchors
Length: 60-80 feet (estimated typical gully length) ft
Type: Alpine | Ice
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Wild River Wilderness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"West Royce Mountain Ice delivers a rugged backcountry ice climbing experience for adventurous souls willing to hike and bushwhack for pristine routes. Expect rewarding, moderate ice lines far from the crowds, where wild scenery and solitude define every pitch."

West Royce Mountain Ice: A Wild Adventure in New Hampshire's Deep North

Tucked into the untamed folds of northern New Hampshire’s backcountry, the ice climbing at West Royce Mountain promises a rugged adventure for seasoned winter explorers seeking something off the beaten path. Positioned at 2,650 feet and offering views into the heart of the remote Wild River Wilderness, this area is much more than a single gully — it’s a window into true wilderness climbing, where adventure outweighs convenience and the surroundings demand both respect and planning.

The area is best known for “Too Far for Nothing Gully,” an inviting ice line coursing down the mountain’s east flank. For those with an eye for classic lines, “Bubble Gully (WI2) - 3.5 stars” is another recognized objective here, often favored for its manageable difficulty and reliable ice conditions during peak season. What sets West Royce Mountain Ice apart isn’t just its isolation or cold-throttled beauty, but the sense of genuine accomplishment and discovery it delivers every time you swing your tools into the frozen flow.

Getting here is half the story: You’ll start by parking at The Basin, a quiet pullout that marks the threshold to some of the wildest country in the Whites. From there, the journey really begins on the Royce Trail, a path that quickly leaves civilization behind as it climbs through silent hardwood forests and winds towards the mountain’s eastern heights. After a healthy uphill hike, climbers should be ready for a stretch of cross-country travel — a true northern New England bushwhack — weaving through tangled evergreens and drifted snow, with each step leading further from the comforts of the road. GPS navigation and careful landmarking are essential here, especially after recent snowfall which can mask any sign of previous travel.

Once you reach the base, the spirit of the place is palpable: cliffs rimmed in icicles, blue flows twisting down granite slabs, and the hush of wind through pines. The ice itself is generally solid through midwinter, forming dependable lines thick enough for confident placements but variable enough to require real judgment. Bubble Gully remains a favorite for calibrating legs and skills — a solid WI2 offering steady, moderate climbing with an enjoyable rhythm.

Climbing here is not just about movement—it’s about immersion in a corner of the White Mountains where every small victory, every placement, feels earned. Weather in this zone can shift quickly, with snow squalls and cold currents blowing across the ridges, so climbers should arrive prepared for rapidly changing conditions. The remoteness ensures pristine ice but also means you’ll need to be totally self-reliant: bring all the technical gear you typically rely on, spare layers, and navigation tools that work offline.

The area’s low traffic helps keep routes in excellent shape, but also means no fixed anchors or obvious descent trails. Most lines require a careful walk-off or controlled downclimb back to safer ground. Navigation on the way out is just as crucial as on the way in—hold your bearings and be ready for deep powder and hidden obstacles if you return during peak winter.

What sticks with most climbers? It’s not just the pitch of ice, the cold seeping through gloves, or the thrum of effort on the uphill march, but the vivid sense that you’re venturing into a place most never see in winter. With every trip here, the lessons of self-sufficiency and careful judgment grow sharper. West Royce Mountain Ice is for those who are ready to blur the line between climbing and true adventure, deep in the heart of New Hampshire’s wild, frozen north.

Climber Safety

Be prepared for rapidly changing weather and challenging navigation, both on approach and descent. Terrain can be hazardous after storms, with deep snow, avalanche potential in gullies, and little help nearby. Always travel with a partner and bring essential winter survival gear.

Area Details

TypeAlpine | Ice
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60-80 feet (estimated typical gully length) feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to ensure solid snow bridges and maximize daylight.

Study maps and GPS routes ahead of time—navigation can be difficult in deep snow.

Bring extra warm gear: the approach and climbs are often exposed to wind.

Leave a trip plan with someone — cell service is spotty at best.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The area’s hallmark climb, Bubble Gully, is a WI2 and presents approachable ice for competent leaders, with grades that match what you’d expect in the Whites: honest, not sandbagged, but requiring respect for variable conditions. Expect similar standards to other northern NH classics.

Gear Requirements

Full ice rack and winter climbing kit required. Bring a set of screws, long runners for trees or natural anchors, and expect to create your own belays. Snow shoes or skis recommended for approach after storms.

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Tags

remote
bushwhack approach
good for winter
wilderness
moderate ice
adventure
no fixed anchors