Huntington Ravine Winter Ice Climbing Guide: New Hampshire’s Alpine Playground

Gorham, New Hampshire
alpine
exposed
avalanche terrain
classic climbs
mixed climbing
ice climbing
multi-pitch
winter
challenging approach
Length: 1000-1400 ft
Type: Alpine | Ice | Mixed
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
White Mountain National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Huntington Ravine delivers one of New England’s most iconic winter ice climbing experiences, offering dramatic alpine lines, legendary gullies, and a true mountain environment on Mount Washington’s rugged east face. Combining bold routes with real alpine hazards, it’s a playground for experienced climbers seeking adventure and challenge."

Huntington Ravine Winter Ice Climbing Guide: New Hampshire’s Alpine Playground

In the heart of New Hampshire’s rugged Presidential Range, Huntington Ravine waits—ever imposing, always alluring—as a winter stronghold for ice climbers with a taste for exposure, commitment, and classic alpine adventure. This striking cirque, perched high on the eastern flanks of Mount Washington, stands as one of the Northeast’s most coveted cold-season objectives. If you crave technical lines, wild weather, and the sort of atmosphere that transforms a day out into a full-on mountain mission, Huntington Ravine supplies in spades.

Huntington’s winter face is all business. Icy gullies, blue-hued flows, and imposing rock buttresses haunt the upper reaches of the bowl, each bearing the scars of countless winter storms and freeze-thaw cycles. Approach the amphitheater on foot from Pinkham Notch—a gateway as familiar as it is formidable for anyone heading into the Whites. Follow the Tuckerman Ravine Trail until it splits, then peel off onto the “Winter” Huntington Ravine Trail. As you break treeline near the base, the ravine leaps into view—a beautiful, almost intimidating arena ringed with long, continuous ice lines and mixed routes that carve their way through alpine rock. Even on busy winter weekends, when climbers flock from Boston, Canada, and New York, the sheer magnitude of the cirque and the spread of the routes offer plenty of space for adventure.

The climbing here is legendary, with a collection of gullies and buttresses regarded as classics throughout the Northeast. Climbers seeking a moderate start often test themselves on Central Gully (WI1) and Odell’s Gully (WI2)—routes that teach respect for snow conditions as much as technique. For those chasing more technical ground, Pinnacle Gully (WI3) and Damnation Gully (WI3), both favorites of seasoned locals, deliver extended, sustained pitches on solid ice with just enough sting to keep hearts pounding. North Gully (WI3) and Cloudwalker (WI4) add steeper terrain and breathtaking exposure, while Yale Gully (WI2) tempts adventurers who appreciate a slightly mellower, though still demanding, alpine flow. For rock-minded climbers eyeing winter objectives, Damnation Buttress (5.6) becomes a mixed challenge unlike anything on nearby crags.

Make no mistake—this is true alpine climbing, flavored by Mount Washington’s notorious reputation for wild, fast-changing weather and avalanche risk. Preparation is essential. Route-finding can be complex, especially when fresh snow blanks the usual features or wind sculpts the landscape overnight. Check avalanche conditions before committing; many of the gullies act as classic slide paths, so conservative decision-making and solid winter travel skills are non-negotiable.

Find your way up the long, winding lines and take in the sweeping views—clouds racing overhead, spindrift filling the air, the raw spirit of the Whites all around. There’s more than just physical effort here. Every swing, every careful step, every decision in Huntington Ravine is a lesson in judgment, patience, and the art of moving in the mountains.

For those planning a trip, expect an elevation of over 4,400 feet and challenging terrain that rarely feels forgiving. Bring the right tools, start early, and commit to safe travel. The quality of Huntington’s ice is often superb mid-winter, when the season hits its stride. And when you stand at the top, battered by wind and beaming with effort, you’ll understand why this ravine keeps drawing climbers back year after year.

Climber Safety

Watch for avalanche danger—many gullies act as natural slide paths, and snowpack can shift dramatically after storms or temperature swings. Always check the latest avalanche report and be cautious with route selection and group spacing during high-risk periods.

Area Details

TypeAlpine | Ice | Mixed
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1000-1400 feet

Local Tips

Get an early start to beat the crowds, especially on weekends.

Check Mount Washington avalanche forecasts before heading in—conditions change rapidly.

Layer up; strong winds and frigid temps are the norm near the headwall.

Crampons, technical ice tools, and a robust layering system are a must for all routes.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Huntington Ravine’s grades are regarded as true to their alpine character—expect the WI2s and WI3s to feel full value, especially in thin or variable conditions. The climbing is never casual, and the ratings reflect serious winter environments rather than roadside ice. Comparable in seriousness to classic Adirondack gullies, but with harsher weather and more sustained exposure. Not sandbagged, but certainly demanding.

Gear Requirements

Standard winter alpine rack: a selection of ice screws (including stubbies and mediums), pickets for snow protection, small cams and nuts for mixed sections, twin or double ropes recommended due to long pitches and complex descents. Avalanche transceiver, shovel, and probe are essential given frequent slide activity.

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Tags

alpine
exposed
avalanche terrain
classic climbs
mixed climbing
ice climbing
multi-pitch
winter
challenging approach