"The Main Slab Area in New Hampshire’s Great North Woods offers climbers moderate slab routes on clean granite, framed by forest and a rugged, recently improved approach trail. Classic climbs like October Sundae and The Road North deliver steady challenges in an accessible, scenic setting."
Stretching across the far left side of a vast granite cliff face, the Main Slab Area commands attention with its clean lines, inviting slab climbs, and a blend of straightforward classic routes. Located within New Hampshire’s Great North Woods, this spot offers a climbing experience rooted in rugged simplicity and natural beauty at an elevation of roughly 2,016 feet. The climbing here is predominantly moderate in difficulty, making it an ideal playground for climbers honing their slab technique or seeking immersive granite challenges without extreme grades.
From the moment you arrive at the base, the cliff stretches wide, interrupted by a prominent gully cleft that cuts diagonally from right to left just left of the Apron area—this natural fissure gives the wall character and divides the climbing into approachable segments. The routes begin at the farthest left with classics like Spell of the Yukon (5.7) and Yowza (5.9 or 5.7), both of which are known names within regional circles, though here they sit alongside similarly graded climbs such as Panning for Gold (5.7) and October Sundae (5.7), the latter being a defining route of the area and a reliable descent anchor.
Climbers looking to link pitches will find options in Alpine Experience (5.7), which provides additional top pitches and variations to extend the day’s adventure. Moving rightward, The Road North leads toward Orgasmo Slab and features solid moderate climbing at 5.8, while routes like Double Crack (5.8) situated higher on the right side offer crack climbing that contrasts the smooth slab sections lower down.
The rock quality is consistent, typical New Hampshire granite, robust and clean with enough texture to provide good friction on the slab sections without being overly sharp. While exact rock type details aren’t listed, the cliff’s sheer expanse and varied route options favor those comfortable with slab climbing techniques and route finding amidst subtle features.
Getting here requires a bit of planning, as traditional approaches have become overgrown and difficult due to expanding beaver dams and dense brush. Thankfully, a recently established trail simplifies access—branching from the Lost Boys approach path, this new route cuts the approach time to about 20 minutes from the designated New Trailhead. The directions to reach this trailhead are well documented: from Rt 16 north near Berlin, a right turn onto Success Pond Road leads to a rough dirt road that only higher-clearance vehicles can traverse fully. Others will park earlier and complete the last 0.7 miles on foot along the well-maintained path.
Descent from the cliff is straightforward and documented meticulously by Paul Cormier, emphasizing the importance of rappelling straight down October Sundae rather than veering right to avoid dangerous rope wear from a two-bolt anchor at the overhang’s edge. The rappel follows a cleared swath through the trees to a tree anchor, then another rappel down to the first pitch anchor.
Seasonally, the Main Slab shines in milder months when the high northern exposure warms under the sun, with summer and fall providing the most comfortable climbing windows. The surrounding forest offers a quiet backdrop, its shades shifting with the seasons—early mornings can hold dew-soaked grass, so waterproof footwear is wise. The area doesn’t host big alpine difficulties but delivers a grounded, steady adventure where preparation and respect for the approach trail and descent pay off.
Classic climbs like October Sundae, The Road North, and Ingy's Ice Cream represent the heart of the area's allure, offering fun, consistent moderate challenges without the commitment or difficulty of harder alpine routes. The vibe here is one of patient exploration, a place for climbers to sharpen their slab moves, enjoy the peacefulness of the Great North Woods, and test themselves without the distractions of overcrowded crags or overly ambitious grades.
In short, the Main Slab Area stands as a practical, enjoyable climbing destination for those seeking quality routes in a quietly dramatic forested setting. The improved access and clearly marked approach underscore the area’s evolving reputation as a must-visit for climbers familiar with New England granite, offering a refined balance of adventure, technique, and natural beauty.
Pay close attention during the descent rappel on October Sundae—avoid the two-bolt anchor on the overhang’s east end to prevent rope shredding. The approach trail, while improved, still crosses streams and can be slippery after rain, so use caution.
Use the new trailhead access to avoid the overgrown, beaver-damaged old trail.
High clearance vehicles can drive the washed-out dirt road to the new trailhead parking; otherwise park earlier and hike in.
On rappel, descend straight down October Sundae to avoid rope damage from the east overhang anchor.
Be prepared for dew-soaked grass early in the morning and potential stream crossings on the approach.
Climbers should be prepared for moderate trad gear, including standard protection suitable for New England granite slabs. Expect a mix of bolts and traditional placements along the routes. The descent rappel anchors require attention to rope management to avoid abrasion.
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