Two Pines Buttress at Devil's Lake: Classic Wisconsin Climbing with Varied Lines and Scenic Trails

Baraboo, Wisconsin
sandstone
trad climbing
single pitch
east-west aspect
accessible approach
classic routes
Devil’s Lake
Length: 150-200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
Single pitch
Protected Place
Devil’s Lake State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Two Pines Buttress in Wisconsin offers climbers a blend of steady sandstone climbs ranging from moderate to challenging, set against the scenic backdrop of the Baraboo Range. Its accessible approach and classic routes like Full Stop and Mouse Tracks make it an ideal destination for climbers seeking both adventure and solid gear-tested lines."

Two Pines Buttress at Devil's Lake: Classic Wisconsin Climbing with Varied Lines and Scenic Trails

Two Pines Buttress stands as a compelling destination for climbers visiting the Baraboo Range in Wisconsin, offering an engaging mix of long, continuous routes on its eastern half and distinctive ledge-separated climbs to the west. With an elevation reaching approximately 1,403 feet, this cliff balances moderate accessibility with rewarding climbs that cater to a range of skill levels. The setting is part of Devil’s Lake State Park, a renowned hub for Midwestern climbers looking to combine solid sandstone climbing with outdoor exploration.

The approach to Two Pines Buttress involves a pleasant hike up the CCC trail, a pathway that winds through forested terrain and gains elevation steadily. After passing a landmark known as the Monster, a left turn leads toward the Pedestal Buttress from which another left turn guides you roughly 200 feet to reach the base of Two Pines. Climbers seeking the summit of the buttress instead take a right at this junction, continuing around the east end of the cliff before hiking west for about 300 feet. This manageable approach provides an added layer of adventure while avoiding overly technical or remote access.

At the heart of Two Pines are climbs that blend easygoing routes with some more demanding challenges, making it an inviting place for both longtime devotees and enthusiastic newcomers. Popular lines on the buttress include Full Stop (5.6) and Schizophrenia (5.6), which offer straightforward, continuous climbing. For those looking to test sharper skills, The Rack (5.7) holds its own, along with other favorites like Reprieve and Hypoglycemia at 5.7. The harder end of the spectrum features routes such as Mouse Tracks and Thoroughfare, both rated 5.11a, presenting technical moves that reward concentration and refined technique.

Classic climbs around Two Pines highlight this diversity clearly. Mouse’s Misery (5.10a) earns high praise with 4.5 stars, appreciated for its challenge and flow. Routes like Vacillation (5.8) and Touch & Go (5.7) rank well too, consistently drawing climbers back for their dependable rock quality and enjoyable lines. While Cushining yourself at the foot of these routes, the sandstone holds steady, providing reliable friction and protection, though typical of Devil’s Lake, attention to rock condition and weather is essential – sandstone can be slick when wet.

Gear recommendations lean toward a versatile rack suitable for traditional climbing, as many routes contain natural protection placements. While the rock type wasn't specified in full detail, the reputation of the Devil’s Lake area suggests a need for cams and nuts across a range of sizes, particularly in finger to hand crack widths. Most climbs are single pitch, making a standard rack and moderate length rope sufficient for a full day of quality ascents.

Seasonal considerations play an important role here. The cliff’s east-west orientation means mornings catch cool shade while afternoons warm under open sun, allowing climbers to time their climbs around comfort and conditions, especially in warmer months. Spring to early fall marks the prime window to experience Two Pines, avoiding the wet risks that often compromise sandstone quality.

Descent from the cliff is a combination of walking off the base or downclimbing on easier terrain near the routes. No technical rappel spots are typically needed, but care is advised due to the ledges separating the western climbs.

Beyond climbing, Two Pines sits within the broader Devil’s Lake State Park, an area famous for its impressive cliffs, scenic lake views, and a section of Wisconsin's Baraboo Range. This makes the site appealing not just for climbing but as a nature destination for hiking, picnics, and appreciating the unique geology.

Two Pines Buttress isn’t just a collection of routes, it’s a gateway to Midwest climbing history and a perfect spot to refine skills without venturing deep into wilderness. Whether you're tackling the challenging crimps of Mouse Tracks or savoring the more relaxed lines like Full Stop, the area delivers an approachable yet dynamic climbing experience. Preparation, respect for the fragile sandstone, and a readiness for variable weather will ensure your visit is as rewarding as the climbs themselves.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of wet conditions on sandstone, which can become slick and dangerous. The western routes are divided by ledges – watch your footing on approach and descents. Respect seasonal timing to avoid damage to rock and optimize climbing safety.

Area Details

TypeTrad
PitchesSingle pitch
Length150-200 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the CCC trail and turn left at the Monster for a 200-foot hike to the base.

Avoid climbing on wet sandstone to maintain grip and protect the rock.

Plan climbs in spring through early fall to avoid wet and cold conditions.

Carry gear for single-pitch trad routes with varied protection options.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Two Pines Buttress presents climbs mostly in the moderate 5.6 to 5.10 range, with standout harder routes touching 5.11a and 5.12. The area’s ratings generally feel honest, offering a sound mix that neither feels sandbagged nor overly generous, similar in spirit to other Devil’s Lake sandstone areas. The rock quality and protection make it approachable yet demanding enough to challenge technical skill.

Gear Requirements

A versatile trad rack with a range of cams and nuts is recommended for Two Pines Buttress, accommodating natural protection placements on mostly single-pitch routes. Standard climbing ropes and gear typical for sandstone climbing in Devil’s Lake apply.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sandstone
trad climbing
single pitch
east-west aspect
accessible approach
classic routes
Devil’s Lake