"Moldy Buttress at Devil’s Lake State Park offers a compact but diverse climbing experience, featuring crack and face routes from 5.2 to 5.12b. With both beginner-friendly and advanced lines, it’s perfect for climbers eager to explore quieter crags with big rewards."
At the heart of Wisconsin’s revered Devil’s Lake State Park, hidden in the ebb and flow of quartzite bluffs, Moldy Buttress emerges as an unassuming but rewarding destination for climbers with a taste for adventure. Moldy Buttress may not get the limelight that some of its neighbors boast, but its compact nature and robust lineup of routes ensure it remains a cherished stop for those exploring the East Bluff’s quieter corners.
Reaching Moldy Buttress feels like its own miniature expedition. From the base of the CCC trail, your legs wake up with a steady hike upwards — lungs fill with pine-scented air as you near the crags. At the Pedestal Buttress intersection, a purposeful left turn keeps you on the texture of well-beaten climbers’ paths. About 300 feet west, the bulk of Moldy Buttress appears, standing sentinel between Many Pines Buttress and Bill’s Buttress, its quartzite faces holding challenges for a range of abilities, all perched at a breezy 1,417 feet.
Climbers find plenty to savor here, from beginner-friendly warmups to steep tests that keep even experienced climbers sharp. The grades spread from 5.2 to a burly 5.12b, allowing progression and repeat visits. The classic routes are the true reason Moldy Buttress remains memorable. Whether you’re shaking out on the varied movement of Verticulture (5.5) or eyeing up the clean lines of Cul-de-Sac (5.8), the buttress rewards with steep face climbs, cracks, and intricate footholds. Challenges like Tibia Crack and Roofus (both 5.8) pack a punch for their grade, offering protection opportunities that invite newer leaders to expand their toolkit. More technical climbers gravitate to Cul de Sac Exit (5.11) — a local favorite for its sustained difficulty and position — and Fibula Cracks (5.12a), which sharpens skills on thin jams and delicate feet.
The climbing experience is always changing with the seasons. Spring and fall deliver mild temperatures and dappled afternoon light, making for comfortable days on the rock. In summer, dense foliage casts welcome shade across the approach and many of the buttress’ lines, while crisp autumn days bring sweeping views and solid friction. Winters shape a different scene — the buttress retreats into stillness under a layer of snow, marking time for the patient to plan their next ascent.
For those coming to Moldy Buttress, be prepared for single-pitch routes with technical cruxes and exposed topouts. The height is manageable — most climbs top out between 40 to 50 feet — but the setting heightens the commitment, with airy stances and sweeping eastern views across Devil’s Lake. Approach terrain can be steep and slick, especially after rain, so sturdy footwear and attentive footing are crucial. The reward arrives quickly: within a short but cardio-pumping approach, you’re at the base, racking up in relative solitude even on busier park weekends.
Protection here is typical of Devil’s Lake — bring a versatile trad rack heavy on small cams and nuts for the cracks, and prepare for the sometimes finicky placements unique to the Baraboo quartzite. Many anchors require natural features and gear placements, so know your anchor craft. There are no fixed anchors on the majority of climbs — what you bring is what you’ll use.
Descent is generally straightforward. Many routes allow a walk-off via winding climber’s paths, though some may require a careful downclimb or gear-protected lower. Double-check anchor security before trusting your descent, and remain mindful of loose soil, especially in spring and after rain. On busy weekends, it's polite to keep an eye out for nearby parties sharing the limited real estate at the top.
Moldy Buttress isn’t about chasing crowds or fame — it’s for those who want a taste of the wild at Devil’s Lake, with a lineup of thoroughly enjoyable, well-loved climbs. The sense of adventure comes not from extreme heights, but from the satisfaction of masterfully executed movement on classic Wisconsin rock, backed by the hush of pines and an ever-changing sky overhead. For climbers who love a blend of approach, exploration, and a community of routes that cater to a range of skill levels, Moldy Buttress rewards effort with genuine memories on the sharp end.
Quartzite can be slippery after rain and the approach trail is often steep; take your time and ensure secure footing both on the way in and at the topouts. Expect to build your own gear anchors.
Trails can be muddy or slick after rain — wear grippy approach shoes.
Early mornings and late afternoons see the least traffic and best light.
Brush off holds as needed; some lichen may remain even in prime season.
Plan for shade during summer and cooler conditions in fall and spring.
Bring a full rack of nuts and cams with an emphasis on smaller pieces; natural anchors are common with few fixed options. Solid anchor building skills and routefinding are necessary.
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