Brinton's Buttress - Premier Climbing on Devil's Lake East Rampart

Baraboo, Wisconsin
crack climbing
granite
traditional gear
exposed ledges
classic routes
multi-level approach
Length: 80-120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Devil's Lake State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Brinton's Buttress commands attention on Devil's Lake East Rampart with its durable granite faces and diverse climbs. From beginner-friendly cracks to Wisconsin's hardest routes, this area offers an engaging range for every climber seeking a blend of technical challenge and scenic reward."

Brinton's Buttress - Premier Climbing on Devil's Lake East Rampart

Brinton's Buttress stands out as the centerpiece of the East Rampart at Devil's Lake, Wisconsin — a must-visit for anyone seeking solid rock and memorable climbs in the Baraboo Range. Its imposing cliffs offer a blend of challenging routes and approachable classics that draw climbers from all grades to this iconic bluff. Here, nature’s raw granite presents itself with diversity — from clean cracks to textured faces — offering a dynamic weekend or day outing for both dedicated climbers and those soaking in the thrill of the outdoors.

Access begins at the well-maintained CCC trail, a steady climb rewarded with increasingly spectacular views and a growing anticipation of vertical adventure. Follow the trail up until you reach The Monster, a distinctive landmark on the approach, then turn left to navigate the rocky talus field. The terrain here requires careful footing, but the gradual elevation gain steadily prepares you for the main event. Reaching Pedestal Buttress marks a key waypoint where you can choose your path: turning right leads you around the east end of the East Rampart wall and along a scenic ledge to the top of Brinton’s Buttress, offering an eye-level perspective of the crags. Alternatively, a left turn leads you down a short climber’s trail to the base, putting you within arm’s reach of some of the best routes.

The climbing itself ranges from beginner-friendly faces like Brinton’s Crack (5.6) and Berkeley (5.6) to hardened test-pieces such as Rubberman (5.13b), rated the most challenging climb at the lake. Classic climbs pepper the area and come highly recommended; routes like Brinton’s Direct (5.8) and Stool Pigeon (5.11b) offer high-quality movement and protection, while others such as Rococo Variations (5.7) and Sheep Thrills (5.10a) provide engaging pitch options for intermediate climbers seeking progressive difficulty. Each climb favors solid, clean granite with a rock quality that rewards attention to footwork and careful gear placement.

The buttress enjoys primarily easterly and southern exposure, so mornings catch the sun early, warming the rock and air. Summer and early fall are ideal seasons to visit, especially when Wisconsin’s humidity dips and crowds thin out midweek. Weather here generally supports a long climbing season with moderate summer highs and crisp autumn evenings, though rain can occasionally dampen plans, so a close eye on forecasts is essential.

Safety is paramount — the approach involves talus and rock steps that demand solid hiking shoes and some familiarity with uneven terrain. The cliff tops are exposed in places, so caution is advised near edges, and climbers should plan descent routes carefully to avoid surprises after their sends. Descents from most routes involve straightforward downclimbs or walks along the top bench, with no complicated rappels required.

Brinton’s Buttress is part of the larger East Bluff climbing sector within Devil’s Lake State Park — a spectacular outdoor playground renowned for its uncompromising grit and panoramic views over the lake. The park balances preservation with recreation, ensuring that access trails remain clear and that the rock faces maintain their character for generations to come. For climbers, it offers a balanced mix of challenge and scenic reward at every turn.

Local tips for a smoother visit include bringing a robust trad rack with standard nuts and cams, as many classics are protected by traditional gear; packing layers for variable weather — mornings can be cool even in summer; arriving early on weekends to beat crowds and secure parking close to trailheads; and carrying plenty of water, since shade is limited at midday on the buttress. The overall route quality and range of climbing experiences make Brinton’s Buttress an essential stop on any Devil’s Lake itinerary, inspiring both confidence and tenacity with every pitch.

Whether you are tackling Rubberman, warming up on some 5.6s, or exploring the flow of mid- to upper 5.10 face climbs, this crag delivers rock-solid adventure tethered to practical access and a friendly climbing community. It’s a brilliant venue to sharpen skills, enjoy Wisconsin’s wilderness, and feel the pulse of classic Midwest climbing in motion.

Climber Safety

The approach includes loose talus and rock steps that demand steady footing; be cautious near cliff edges during ascent and descent. Seasonal weather shifts can make the rock slippery following rain, so plan climbing days accordingly.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length80-120 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the CCC trail, watch for The Monster landmark to know where to turn.

Bring sturdy footwear for rock steps and talus on the approach.

Arrive early on weekends to find parking and avoid crowd buildup at the base.

Pack layers as mornings can be chilly and the buttress has variable sun exposure.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Brinton’s Buttress offers a solid range from moderate 5.6 climbs to demanding 5.13b challenges like Rubberman. The grades tend to feel fair with some stiff sections at the higher end. Compared to other Midwest crags, it leans toward a technical trad style over pure sport, rewarding gear placement and footwork rather than power alone.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear is essential for Brinton’s Buttress, with a rack that includes standard cams and nuts suitable for crack protection. Tri-cams can be useful in some sections. Expect to use a full single rack for classic routes. The rock is solid granite requiring careful placements.

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Tags

crack climbing
granite
traditional gear
exposed ledges
classic routes
multi-level approach