"Thin Air breaks a sharp line of technical slab at The Hen House near Kamloops, BC. With expertly placed bolts but minimal holds, this 5.11+ test calls for immaculate footwork and focused precision from climbers seeking a challenging single-pitch adventure."
Thin Air is a singular experience for climbers who seek the subtle demands of technical slab climbing set against the rugged backdrop of The Hen House near Kamloops, British Columbia. This route invites a precise dance of balance and control, requiring the kind of focused execution that few climbs demand. At 5.11+, it challenges even seasoned climbers with its sparse holds and delicate movements on a sheer, smooth face. The rock’s surface, once reliably peppered with gripping edges, has reportedly shed some critical holds over time, elevating the climb’s elusive challenge and limiting ascents to just a handful over the years.
The Hen House lies embedded in British Columbia’s semi-arid interior, where the rock basks in sun for much of the day, warming under a clear sky. Climbers often find themselves contending with heat radiating off the stone, while a dry breeze from nearby valleys offers a hint of relief. The approach to this single-pitch sport climb is straightforward but requires attention — expect a short hike through open terrain that leads to the base of an imposing wall etched with other compelling routes.
Thin Air is brilliantly protected, with a series of solid bolts safeguarding each move, so mental focus can remain centered on foot placements and subtle weight shifts rather than gear placements. The bolted anchor provides a secure endpoint for a confident top-rope or lead descent. The climb demands clean edging on minimal holds and a steady head, rewarding climbers who can read the rock’s nearly invisible textures and coax upward progress from near-flat surfaces.
Preparing for this route means sharp footwear with sticky rubber and sticky skin on your fingertips. Bolstered conditioning in balance and footwork will prove more vital here than brute strength. Since the rock here can be unyielding in its smoothness, carrying a small brush to clean holds free of dust and chalk buildup can make the difference in those faint moments where a single edge must carry your weight. The optimal time to climb Thin Air is during either the cooler early morning or late afternoon hours when the rock isn’t aggressively heated, reducing slip risks.
Though brief, this pitch is a high-stakes encounter with technical slab climbing that tests both nerve and finesse, set within a breathtaking regional playground renowned for its dry climate and sunny exposure. The Hen House offers a quiet corner for climbers carving attention out of calm stone. After topping out, retreat via the bolted anchor rappel or a careful scramble back along the access trail, mindful of loose rock and sun exposure during warmer months.
Climbers drawn to Thin Air will appreciate the purity of movement it demands, combining precision footwork and subtle body positioning for a short but memorable test. It's a perfect stop for those exploring Kamloops’ diverse climbing landscape and eager to sharpen their slab skills in a protected, accessible spot.
While the route is well-protected with bolts, the slab nature increases the risk from slips; ensure your shoes are grippy and stay fully attentive on foot placements. The approach and descent expose you to rocky terrain and sun, so hydration and sun protection are important.
Climb during cooler morning or late afternoon hours to avoid slippery hot rock.
Bring sticky rubber shoes for maximum edging grip on thin holds.
Carry a small brush to clear dust and chalk buildup on delicate edges.
Use the bolted anchor for a secure rappel descent after the climb.
Thin Air is fully bolted with a solid anchor. Sticky rubber shoes and a small brush to clean delicate holds are highly recommended. Conditioning for balance and precise footwork will help immensely.
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