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Routefinding 101: A Bold Trad Challenge on North Table Mountain

Golden, Colorado United States
trad crack
single pitch
exposed crux
small cams
Golden Cliffs
Colorado trad
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Routefinding 101
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Routefinding 101 climbs crisply up North Table Mountain’s golden sandstone, delivering a hands-on trad experience with sharp cracks and a demanding crux. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their route-reading skills while enjoying a manageable yet bold challenge."

Routefinding 101: A Bold Trad Challenge on North Table Mountain

Routefinding 101 stands as a concise yet demanding test of trad climbing skill on the northern cliffs of Golden, Colorado. The climb stakes its claim on a steep left-start just outside the familiar gully of Tora Tora Tora, carving a direct line up a series of clean cracks and sharp dihedrals. The rock here feels alive beneath your hands and feet, its texture rough and uncompromising, demanding precise placement and steady focus. Tiny cams will become your closest allies as you slot into narrow horizontals, while a trio of recently added bolts provides optional — though often unnecessary — security, giving climbers room to tailor their experience.

The route’s signature lies in the committing crux where you’ll find yourself clipping and extending a bolt to protect a challenging move up and left, leading to an exposed position perched above the Mr. Squirrel anchors. This section commands respect, with the wind slipping past and the rim’s height sharpening your focus, magnifying every choice. The short V-dihedral that follows guides you to the rim, closing out the pitch with a satisfying blend of technique and mental grit.

Access is straightforward compared to more remote climbs but still requires careful planning. Approaching from the Overhang Area within North Table Mountain’s Golden Cliffs, expect a rugged trail that carves through scrub oak and rocky talus, warming up your legs for the push ahead. Given the route's single pitch nature, time on the wall is efficient, making it well-suited for a morning or early afternoon session before the sun shifts and heats the south-facing rocks.

Gear demands lean toward the small end of the protection spectrum. Besides the standard SR rack, a set of tiny cams and potentially small Tricams will secure your ascent in the horizontally running cracks and dihedrals. The bolts provide a safety net but don’t rely on them; traditional placements test your ability to read and trust the rock’s natural features.

Seasonal considerations favor spring and fall, when the wall is mostly shaded during climbing hours, offering cooler conditions and less glare. Summer afternoon sun can bake the sandstone, turning the climb into a quest for shade and hydration. Keep a keen eye on the rock’s condition—while solid overall, pieces loosen after heavy rain or freeze-thaw cycles.

Descending Routefinding 101 is straightforward. The anchors above the rim lead to a secure rappel that places you safely back on the approach trail. Take care during the rappel as the exposure and height above the valley floor intensify the impression of how high you’ve come. Familiarize yourself fully with anchor setups before committing, especially if you’re managing gear exchanges on the wall.

This climb isn’t for the faint-hearted but offers a rewarding balance of technical crack climbing and strategic route management. It’s a rare chance to engage fully with the rock while sharpening your trad skills in the shadow of Colorado’s foothills. Whether you’re dialing in your crack technique or pushing on the mental edge of exposure, Routefinding 101 promises an experience that challenges and teaches in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the crux and avoid climbing soon after heavy rain or freeze-thaw conditions. The exposure above the Mr. Squirrel anchors can be intimidating; ensure solid protection and extend gear to minimize any potential pendulum swings during a fall.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start on the left side of the gully to follow the cleanest crack system.

Bring a full set of small cams and include a few tiny Tricams for tricky horizontal placements.

Plan to clip and extend the first bolt to reduce rope drag during the crux move.

Approach early or late in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-exposed wall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated as a 5.9-, the grade sits at the lower threshold yet demands attentive gear management and a confident crack technique. The crux move up and left above the bolt introduces a subtle spike in difficulty, making the listed grade feel just right. Compared to other 5.9 routes locally, Routefinding 101 leans on technical placements more than sustained physical endurance.

Gear Requirements

Small cams and possibly small Tricams are essential for securing placements in narrow horizontal cracks. The route includes three recent bolts, but solid traditional placements should not be overlooked. Lightweight rack with standard SR gear complemented by tiny cams delivers the best protection.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
exposed crux
small cams
Golden Cliffs
Colorado trad