At first glance, The Pig Pen may not dazzle with polish or reputation, but for the climber with an axe to grind—literally—it’s a true find in the heart of New Hampshire’s North Conway area. Just off West Side Road and a stone’s throw from your parked vehicle, this unique cliff offers a niche but vital resource: roadside drytooling and mixed climbing for both the dedicated and the curious.

What sets The Pig Pen apart is its functional approach to climbing. If you're working toward winter objectives or just craving time on tools, this crag checks the right boxes. While only one route currently tops out—best undertaken with frozen turf under your feet—the cliff’s angle and set of roofs lend themselves to steep lines and a reliable dry spot in all but the worst rain or snow. The setting is pragmatic, the vibe is focused, and, on a sweltering summer day, the north-facing aspect means climbing here offers a rare bit of shade among North Conway’s otherwise sunblasted crags.

As for the rock—don’t expect bomber granite just yet. Much of the wall remains chossy, though ongoing cleaning will shape the character of the area in years to come. Keep your helmet on and your reflexes sharp. A stick clip isn’t just recommended; it’s a baseline requirement for safe climbing, especially out of season. Larger loose blocks have been cleared, but small debris lingers, so bring your best judgment. It’s the kind of place that rewards care and humility over bravado.

Equally important is respecting the clear boundaries between drytooling and trad or sport climbing here. Pig Pen houses both rock and mixed lines—tools are strictly for the latter, not the former. Every bolted line left of Cuckold’s Corner, the finger crack to a bombay chimney, and lines between Sam’s Corner, Relish and Catch Up, as well as between What We Do in the Shadows and The Acceptable Cave, are rock climbing territory only. Do your part to keep access open and the locals happy by following this ethic. The rock routes can be found in the Handren North Conway Climbs guidebook, but drytooling lines are what give The Pig Pen its underground appeal.

Classics like Shuffle the Deck (3.5 stars), Relish and Catch Up (4.5 stars), Cuckold’s Corner (3.0 stars), and Bacon Bits (3.5 stars) offer a mix of grades and styles for those with the skills and desire to train hard. The Pig Pen embodies the grind: hard skill work, variable quality, and a focus on honest assessment over inflated beta. If you want to measure yourself against your objectives, this is where you get your reps.

Finding the cliff is a quick job—park in the pullout north of Humphrey’s parking on West Side Road. Look for the guardrail at the north end, then drop into the drainage, walk ten paces north, then hike straight up. The Mack truck–sized boulder marks your target. If you’re bushwhacking for more than a few minutes, retrace your steps. Local wisdom suggests avoiding this pullout during snow storms to prevent getting towed, but on clear days, the approach is trivial and the reward immediate.

The Pig Pen isn’t for everyone. It’s not a venue for your first day out or a group photoshoot. But for the driven climber, chasing mastery on tools or ticking off training days in the North Conway area, it’s a true proving ground—unapologetically steep, sometimes dirty, always direct. Respect the space and stay sharp; you might just come away a better climber for it.