Winter Ice Climbing at Cathedral Ledge: New Hampshire’s Iconic Steep Playground

North Conway, New Hampshire
classic
north facing
winter
multi-pitch
exposed
historic area
good views
varied difficulty
Length: up to 891 ft ft
Type: Ice | Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single and multi-pitch
Protected Place
Cathedral Ledge State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cathedral Ledge in North Conway comes alive in winter, offering a dramatic palette of ice climbs that range from approachable classics to steep, demanding lines. Its easy access and legendary routes make it an essential stop for Northeast ice climbers chasing both challenge and scenery."

Winter Ice Climbing at Cathedral Ledge: New Hampshire’s Iconic Steep Playground

Rising above the heart of North Conway, Cathedral Ledge transforms each winter into a vertical world of glittering blue ice and bold lines, captivating climbers from across the Northeast and beyond. The Ledge’s 891-foot cliff face is unmistakable against the wintry skyline—stately, imposing, and streaked with frozen cascades that make it both a challenge and a privilege to climb here. As snow settles over the White Mountains, Cathedral Ledge becomes a proving ground for ice climbers of all stripes, offering a compelling mix of routes, from approachable pillars to relentless pump-fests that test even the veterans.

The adventure begins before you even touch the ice. All roads funnel into North Conway—an energetic mountain hub where gear shops and coffee joints fill with anticipation each morning. From town, the crux is simply picking out Cathedral Ledge: look northwest and you’ll spot its monumental face just to the right of its granite sibling, Whitehorse Ledge. The short drive places you minutes from the action, and whether you’re craning your neck at early morning shadows or seeing the afternoon sun ignite the ice, the sight never fails to stir excitement.

Cathedral Ledge’s reputation is built on the consistency, diversity, and quality of its winter routes. Here, you’ll find classics waiting for their yearly crowds—North End Pillars serves up WI3 ice at a moderate angle, a great start for newer leaders or a relaxed day for ice veterans. Thresher and Goofers Delight, also grade WI3, trace beautiful lines up textured flows, with each swing yielding satisfying purchase. For those hungry for more, Remission and Super Goofers (WI5) unleash full-throttle climbing—steep curtains, technical sections, and sustained difficulty that push your endurance and ice technique.

Cathedral’s clutch of climbs means you’re never far from a challenge. The Unicorn (WI4) draws those in search of a touch more difficulty, while Repentance, though listed as 5.9, is notorious for its demanding nature and is widely regarded as one of the area’s true tests—a line that’s as rewarding as it is serious. Conditions shift rapidly, so come prepared for evolving ice, variable protection, and the kind of cold that sharpens both focus and spirit. What unites all the routes here is their exposure—expansive views of the Mount Washington Valley stretch behind you as you climb, amplifying the sense of accomplishment with every placement.

Beyond the climbing, the scene at Cathedral Ledge is active and welcoming. On prime winter weekends, the base buzzes with teams swapping beta, snapping photos, and cheering each other on. You’ll find well-trodden trails and user-packed snow that keep access straightforward, but don’t get complacent: icy pathways can demand extra caution, particularly on the descent.

If you crave the magic of classic New England winter climbing, Cathedral Ledge delivers at every level. Avant-garde lines, approachable moderates, and burly testpieces—it’s all here, waiting beneath the frost-laced trees. Local knowledge, solid partners, and readiness for the season’s wild swings in conditions are all part of the equation, but the rewards are huge: adventure, accomplishment, and crisp winter views from one of the most iconic cliffs in the Northeast.

Climber Safety

Beware of the variable ice quality, especially during freeze-thaw cycles. Falling ice from above is common as temperatures rise, and slippery approaches are a significant hazard, so always stay alert and wear proper footwear even when not roped up.

Area Details

TypeIce | Mixed
Pitchessingle and multi-pitch
Lengthup to 891 ft feet

Local Tips

Arrive early on weekends as parking fills up quickly, especially after fresh snowfall.

Check recent condition reports—ice quality varies dramatically day to day.

Bring microspikes or crampons for the approach and descent paths, which can be treacherous.

Nearby North Conway shops often have up-to-date local beta and supplies.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Cathedral Ledge’s winter grades are traditionally solid and not prone to sandbagging—if anything, classics like Repentance have garnered a reputation for being serious and true to their grade, making them reliable benchmarks. Both moderate and advanced lines here offer a step up from many regional crags, and it’s a respected training ground for those eyeing bigger alpine objectives.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of ice tools and screws, including shorter screws for thin ice and longer for deep placements. Early season or dry spells can require creative protection placements and patience for ice to fatten up. Helmets are a must for possible falling ice from above. Some mixed gear may be necessary on thinner routes or for variations.

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Tags

classic
north facing
winter
multi-pitch
exposed
historic area
good views
varied difficulty