Climbing The V Buttress - Upper Central Wall, Cathedral Ledge, NH

North Conway, New Hampshire
steep
mixed protection
exposed
multi-pitch
classic climbs
rappel anchors
quick drying
granite
Length: 190 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
White Mountain National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The V Buttress offers steep, airy lines high on Cathedral Ledge’s Central Wall in New Hampshire. Developed in 2009, these mixed-protection routes deliver technical face and crack climbing with quick approach and reliable anchors, perfect for climbers seeking thrilling exposure and practical access."

Climbing The V Buttress - Upper Central Wall, Cathedral Ledge, NH

Set high on the upper Central Wall of Cathedral Ledge, The V Buttress stands out with its striking white face shaped like a giant V—visible as you drive along Cathedral Ledge Road. This compact yet commanding crag offers climbers a unique blend of steep lines and airy exposure reminiscent of the more frequented South Buttress and Diagonal areas. Established mostly in 2009 through intensive cleaning efforts, these routes have begun to attract attention again due to their quality and swift drying surface. Expect bolted lines equipped with mixed protection, which means a solid mix of bolts and gear placements that reward thoughtful placements and climber commitment alike.

Approach here is refreshingly short compared to many other Cathedral climbs. Park where you would for Airation, then take the climbers’ trail downhill until the path steepens near a small rock slab. From there, a series of short, angled traverses across slabs leads you to a distinct tree with a rappel station marking the start of the routes. Although the climb is high up, the quick approach allows you to focus more time on climbing rather than hauling gear uphill.

The climbing itself demands attention and respect. Routes like Crabnebula (5.11a), Triplet (5.11), and Working Man's Lament (5.11) showcase technical face and crack moves on a clean rock surface that feels surprisingly open. With the elevated position, air hugs your feet with a noticeable sense of exposure, adding a thrilling edge to each movement. All climbs can be easily top-roped from the rap tree, but leading requires a strategic setup: fix your lead line from the rap tree (careful not to knot the end), and bring a separate lead rope. Using 60-meter ropes is standard here to navigate the anchors efficiently.

Anchors are well-spaced and powerful, designed to keep rappelling straightforward yet safe down this steep face. From the rap tree, you will find anchors 50 feet down for top-roping Crabnebula and other pitches, with further belays at 100 feet and 190 feet below. Expect a final free-hanging rappel over Cathedral Cave on your descent, a striking end to the climb that adds to the adventure. While rappelling the full face with a single 70-meter rope might be possible in four rap stations, it’s untested, so bring two ropes if you plan on the full descent. It’s important to note that the rappel distance is shorter than the climbing distance, so reversing the route without a proper belay isn’t possible.

The rock itself is largely solid, with some scrubbing effort still evident on the face. The routes dry quickly due to their elevated position which makes The V Buttress a reliable choice after rain or wet weather. Weather averages suggest summer and early fall as prime climbing seasons, where longer days and clearer skies enhance the view and climbing conditions.

Whether you’re after a fresh line with a bit of solitude, or you have already explored the nearby classic routes on Cathedral’s South Buttress, The V Buttress offers a compelling alternative climb. The quality of the rock, the accessibility, and the impressive exposure create an experience that’s equally satisfying for confident intermediate climbers and seasoned veterans pushing their limits.

Approach time, precise gear considerations, and reliable anchors make this an excellent choice for those looking to blend adventure with practicality. Fans of steep crack and face climbing will appreciate the classic routes here, particularly Triplet’s 5.11 pitch with its well-deserved reputation. As these climbs regain popularity, The V Buttress is poised to become a must-visit on any Cathedral Ledge itinerary for climbers seeking that blend of challenge, scale, and accessibility.

Plan your trip with a solid plan for rope management, be sure to respect the clean nature of the climbs, and enjoy a high-elevation perspective that few other spots along the ledge can provide. The V Buttress is a bright, open face where effort and finesse meet, promising memorable moves on pristine granite bathed in mountain air.

Climber Safety

Anchors are solid but rappel distances require precise rope management, especially with a free hanging rappel over Cathedral Cave. Do not knot the end of rigging ropes, and always double-check anchor integrity before descending. Approach terrain includes narrow slabs—exercise caution on wet or icy days.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length190 feet

Local Tips

Park at Airation trailhead for quick access to The V Buttress approach.

Use 60 meter ropes for efficient rappelling; bring two ropes if possible for full descent.

Fix your lead rope from the rap tree but do not knot the end to avoid retrieval issues.

All routes top rope easily from established anchors, ideal for practice or warming up.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Climbs here generally fall in the 5.11 range with technical, steep moves demanding solid finger cracks and face climbing skills. The V Buttress routes are considered well-protected but require a confident comfort with placing gear on mixed bolts and natural features. The grading is consistent with Cathedral Ledge standards and doesn’t feel sandbagged; rather, a straightforward challenge for climbers stepping into hard 5.11 territory.

Gear Requirements

Routes on The V Buttress feature a blend of bolts and traditional gear placements. Bring a rack suited for mixed protection and tri-cams recommended. Leading requires fixing a line from the rap tree and using a separate lead rope. A 60 meter rope is ideal for efficient rappelling. Anchors are fixed and two-bolt, spaced for multi-pitch rappels down to the base.

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Tags

steep
mixed protection
exposed
multi-pitch
classic climbs
rappel anchors
quick drying
granite