"A four-pitch alpine trad climb on Ship's Prow carving through crack systems and ledges at Long's Peak. This route blends technical climbing with exposed mountain terrain, perfect for climbers seeking thoughtful movement in a classic Colorado setting."
Remember the Pikas offers a balanced alpine climb on the rugged Ship's Prow of Long’s Peak within Rocky Mountain National Park, where the call of exposed granite invites both strategy and stamina. This traditional 4-pitch route unfolds along sharp cracks and sloping ledges, carving an ascent marked by thoughtful moves and rewarding views. The climb begins with a journey up a face interrupted by thin cracks leading to a distinctive roof guarded by a hand-sized crack beneath it—an inviting challenge that demands steady footwork and deliberate protection. Negotiating around the roof, the route shifts right into a broad crack system before following a right-facing corner that culminates on a sloping ledge, a perfect anchor for the first belay. Pitch two rewards with slabby climbing accented by diagonal cracks leading into a higher ramp, offering moments of calm verticality and mental focus amid an alpine setting that sharpens all the senses.
The third pitch intensifies with a commanding flake that requires a solid BD #3 cam for protection and precise movement to edge right onto easier terrain, setting the stage for a final pitch that moves left into a wide gully. Here, the angle eases, inviting climbers to settle into the rhythm of alpine walking up to the summit. The exposed nature of the climb means careful gear placement is essential; a mixed rack of nuts and cams up to BD #3 is critical, with a BD #4 cam providing an extra margin of security on key sections.
Approach involves a hike up from Long’s Peak base, threading through forested trails that open onto rocky alpine niches where wind and rock converse in quiet dialogue. The descent calls for a cautious eastward ridge hike to locate the south-facing descent ramp, a third-class scramble that demands steady footing and attention.
This route suits climbers eager for a moderate alpine challenge that blends crack climbing skills with route-finding savvy in a celebrated national park setting. Optimal timing falls in late summer through early fall, when warming sun softens early morning chills and rock surfaces hold dry. Remember to pack robust footwear, hydration, and layered clothing to shift smoothly with mountain weather. Remember the Pikas stands as a solid choice for those looking to engage with Long's Peak beyond the beaten path, rewarding careful planning with a genuine sense of alpine accomplishment.
Watch for loose rock near the roof and flake sections; placements can be tricky and require careful testing. The sloping ledges and final gully involve exposure that demands secure footing, particularly during descent. Afternoon thunderstorms can develop quickly—plan your climb accordingly.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Rockies.
Bring layers to adjust to temperature swings typical on the ridge.
Check rock conditions after recent precipitation; certain slabs can be slick.
Allow extra time to navigate the east ridge descent carefully.
Prepare a standard rack with nuts and cams up to BD #3; carrying a BD #4 cam can prove helpful but is not strictly necessary. Protection placements require attention, especially near the roof and flake sections.
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