Rat Dance offers a solid introduction to trad climbing within the rugged confines of Staunton Rocks in Staunton State Park, Colorado. This single-pitch route stands out as an engaging warm-up for climbers eager to test their gear placement skills and crack climbing technique without overcommitting. The approach rewards you with the fresh mountain air typical of the South Platte river corridor, where pine-scented breezes mingle with the chatter of creek water rushing nearby.

Starting just beneath a distinctive hand crack located just left of the popular Ride Around The Block route, Rat Dance challenges you immediately with a broken, moderately wide section. The rock here demands focus as you navigate the uneven face en route to the prominent hand crack, which swallows hands and requires steady balance and rhythm. As you progress upward, the route angles slightly left then shifts right into a corner that invites confident footwork and body positioning.

Beyond the corner, the climb steers upward and right toward a belay anchored by a sturdy tree, which this route shares with its neighbor. The final moves require thoughtful gear selection, with protection placements varying in size up to a #4 Camalot. The route rewards effort with hands-on gear tinkering that experienced trad climbers will appreciate and beginners will find instructive. Although the protection feels a bit spicy, solid placements exist for those who remain vigilant.

Staunton Rocks itself is part of a larger network of cliffs along the South Platte River, drawing climbers who seek classic granite with approachable terrain. The route length is modest — roughly one pitch — making it a perfect option for a morning climb or a friendly training climb before tackling more demanding lines nearby.

Climbers should prepare by balancing light gear with necessary medium to large cams to secure the varied protection points along the route. Footwear with good smearing abilities will assist in negotiating the broken sections leading into the crack. The best times to climb tend to be spring through early fall, when the weather is dry and the sun angle provides warmth without intense heat. Expect partial shade during the afternoon on this east-facing wall, offering a cool respite.

Access to Staunton Rocks is straightforward, requiring a moderate hike from Staunton State Park’s parking areas. The trail softens into pine-needle-strewn dirt paths with gentle inclines, winding past forest and open clearings with panoramic views. GPS coordinates (39.5168, -105.3962) guide you to the base where this route waits, offering straightforward navigation for those familiar with the park’s layout.

Rat Dance blends hands-on gear work with approachable climbing moves, promoting confidence and technical skill. While the line lacks the craggy complexity of longer multi-pitch climbs in the area, it excels as a focused climbing exercise amid Colorado’s dynamic rockscape. Climbers should be mindful that while protection is adequate, placements require attention, and the somewhat exposed nature of certain sections calls for steady composure.

With only two votes logged on popular climbing databases, Rat Dance has maintained a quieter profile but offers quality that deserves attention. For climbers scouting Staunton Rocks, this route injects both challenge and charm in a compact form, encouraging climbers to engage directly with the rock and their gear in a natural outdoor setting that doesn’t waste time on frills.

In short, Rat Dance is an understated gem in Staunton State Park—equal parts mechanical gear exercise and inviting crack climbing. Whether you seek a solid warm-up or a straightforward trad line with personality, it’s a route that welcomes climbers ready to focus on the essentials of the craft while soaking in Colorado’s mountain ambiance.