Pickpocket at Redgarden Wall is a brief but intense trad climb that tests your gear judgment and composure. Located on the lowest segment of the west face of Redgarden, this 80-foot route demands a confident 5.8 leader who can read tricky placements and stay sharp on feet. From the start, the climb forces you to engage with the wall’s subtle pockets and edges that disguise both promise and challenge. As you clip in and step leftward across undercut holds, the gear options feel sparse and uncertain—green Alien cams and nuts find purchase in barely obvious flakes and thin cracks.

The crux looms near a short overhang where strength and technique merge into a delicate maneuver. Here, the wall dares you to trust your placements and steadies your balance on small incuts, hands finding purchase amongst the chalked edges. Carefully placed protection can fall victim to dubious rock quality, so a strong rack of micros to mid-sized cams and a full nuts set is critical. Beyond the roof, the climbing relaxes onto a slab where footing opens up but caution remains. A directional nut and a #3 Camalot or 3.5 Friend in a slot higher up offer solid protection options for the final moves.

Pickpocket’s setting is intimate yet exposed, part of the Redgarden Wall’s raw granite face that watches over Eldorado Canyon’s rugged landscape. The approach follows the stream trail until it swings uphill along the west face, guiding you past steeper and more aggressively bolted routes like Captain Crunch and Breakfast of Champions. Quietly tucked between these, Pickpocket calls out to those who prefer the challenge of gear-placed protection over bolts.

Plan your outing with care: the climb’s 5.8 R rating means falling is a serious consideration, and the rock demands a balanced blend of confidence and caution. Early season or early morning attempts keep the rock cool and your hands fresh; afternoons tend to bake this western stretch. Wear shoes with solid edging ability suited for pockets and smears, and bring long slings to prevent gear drag in the tricky traverse section.

For descent, you can walk off the back across loose scree to a large boulder at the base for a belay or scramble down to regroup on the trail for a more straightforward exit. This climb is not for those seeking comfort but for the leader eager to navigate a short route that blends measured moves, subtle protection, and an unfiltered connection to Eldorado’s demanding granite.

Step onto Pickpocket prepared for a climb that whispers warnings but rewards with a tangible sense of accomplishment and intimate views of a beloved Colorado crag.