"Pee Into the Wind is a classic 40-foot trad crack near Golden, Colorado, blending straightforward protection with sharp technical moves. This climb challenges your crack technique with a low crux chimney move and rewarding jams on solid sandstone."
Set against the rugged backdrop of North Table Mountain near Golden, Colorado, Pee Into the Wind offers a straightforward yet invigorating trad climb that’s rooted deeply in local climbing lore. This 40-foot crack climb slices through weathered brown stone, a natural chimney that challenges climbers from the very first moves. The route isn’t just a physical test—it's a moment of connection with a well-worn line that has likely seen many hands before it was ever documented in a guidebook.
From the ground up, the climb demands attention as the crux emerges just a few feet from your feet. Here, you’ll navigate out of a narrow chimney—a move that shifts your focus from brute strength to subtle finesse. The crack that follows ranges from fingers to hands, rewarding careful jams and an intuitive rhythm with steady upward progress. A distinctive jamming move near the top draws you close to the clifftop, where you can establish a secure anchor using natural protection or opt for one of the nearby sport anchors.
The rock itself—a coarse and solid sandstone variant typical to the Golden Cliffs area—offers enough texture to keep your gear placements sound, but consistently demands deliberate footwork and body positioning. A light rack of gear up to three inches will cover the necessary protection, with the added security of natural placements throughout the pitch. This delicate balance between protection opportunity and technical movement keeps the climb engaging for trad climbers looking to sharpen their crack technique without overwhelming difficulty.
Approaching the route is a short but earnest hike from the Brown Cloud Rocks area, where the terrain shifts from open scrub to steeper, rocky slopes. The trail is clear but rocky underfoot, requiring sturdy footwear and steady footing to keep energy reserves for the climb itself. Adventurers aiming for an afternoon ascent benefit from the west-facing exposure, which catches late-day sun and sheds early morning chill, making spring through early fall the best window for a dry, comfortable climb.
Local climbers respect the route’s history and caution that while the climb feels approachable at a 5.8- rating, the initial crux and crack technique mean it’s not a beginner’s warm-up but rather a solid step for those ready to refine their trad skills. Descent is straightforward with an easy scramble down the slope adjacent to the anchors; a short downclimb near the Pee on Dee anchor adds a minor element of attention for those wishing to use established fixed points.
This climb distills the essence of trad climbing near Golden—accessible, clean, and packed with character. Pee Into the Wind is a rare chance to engage a route that’s been quietly welcoming climbers for decades, challenging them to read the rock and trust their gear while soaking in the raw edge of the Colorado sandstone cliffs. Every move emboldens the climber to move confidently upward, where the view from the top offers a satisfying reward and a moment to breathe deeply in the cool mountain air.
The initial chimney move requires good technique to avoid strenuous positions close to the ground. Ensure solid protection placement early, as falling here can bring you into the rock face unexpectedly. The top anchors near Pee on Dee require a short downclimb; exercise caution with loose rock and maintain three points of contact during descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy the cool morning air along the approach.
Use sticky rubber shoes to maximize grip on the textured sandstone.
Bring a light rack focused on cams up to 3 inches; smaller sizes won’t suffice for secure protection.
Scout anchor options on top before leading the crack to plan your descent strategy.
A light rack up to 3 inches is adequate, with plenty of natural gear placements along the chimney and finger crack. Fixed sport anchors are nearby for easy belay setups but require a short downclimb to access when using the Pee on Dee anchor.
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