"New Kid on the Block thrusts climbers up a sharp, pillar-like face in Owens River Gorge, pairing steep, sustained moves with reliable bolt protection. This 60-foot, 5.10a sport climb offers a focused challenge enveloped by the Gorge’s raw volcanic landscape, perfect for climbers aiming to sharpen their technique."
In the heart of California’s Owens River Gorge, where sheer volcanic rock rises sharply against the clear blue sky, New Kid on the Block stakes its claim as a compelling 60-foot sport climb. This route launches you straight up a striking pillar located just right of the well-known Membership Has Its Privileges. Right from the start, your hands meet rough, textured stone as the climb demands confident footwork and precise movements over steep terrain. The rock’s blocky features offer solid purchase, but the route’s complexity lies in its continuous, vertical push—no easy rest spots here, just sustained effort.
This single-pitch climb is a favorite for those looking to test their 5.10a skills within a concise workout. The seven well-spaced bolts provide secure protection, making it ideal for sport climbers who appreciate the balance between safety and challenge. Top-roping options exist by sharing anchors with the neighboring MHIP route, a versatility that encourages route repetition and skill refinement without the full lead commitment every time.
Owens River Gorge opens a window to a rugged, high-desert environment where sun warms the dense gray stone and winds whisper the river’s stories below. The climb faces south-southeast, soaking in morning light that pushes shadows across the uneven rock, revealing holds’ true shapes. Timing a session here in spring or fall ensures moderate temperatures and fewer crowds, while summer afternoons may bring relentless sun that calls for early starts.
Getting to the base, hikers move over a clear, well-maintained path from the parking area in Lower Gorge, a brief walk that sets the tone for focus and anticipation. As you approach, the tower-like pillar appears unmistakable, a compact but steep wall that promises movement that’s both dynamic and precise—perfect for climbers sharpening their technique or those pushing into the lower 5.10 grades.
Gear-wise, a standard sport rack suffices. Seven bolts secure the climb’s line, meaning no extra trad gear is necessary here, but a clean quickdraw set and a strong belay setup are essential. Given the route’s exposure and sun, hydration and sun protection are crucial, especially on longer summer days.
Altogether, New Kid on the Block is more than just a quick climb — it’s a well-rounded challenge amid the stunning geological scenery of Owens River Gorge. It invites you to engage directly with the rock’s angles and textures, rewarding steady focus and calculated moves. Whether as a warm-up or a benchmark climb, it embodies the Gorge’s accessible yet uncompromising character.
The climb’s exposure and steep angle mean falls can be dynamic—ensure your gear is properly clipped and double-check anchors. The rock is generally sound, but shoes with reliable friction help avoid slips on the textured but sometimes crumbly edges.
Start climbing early in the day to avoid intense afternoon sun, especially in summer.
Hydrate well—there is limited shade along the approach and climb.
Top-rope from the anchors of Membership Has Its Privileges for practice or to warm up.
Wear sticky rubber shoes for better grip on the blocky, textured rock.
The route is protected by seven fixed bolts that are well-spaced along the 60-foot line. Climbers should bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws and come prepared for a steep face climb with no trad gear needed.
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