"Neptune's Bible redefines what a 5.8 trad climb can be, blending a unique start in a bare tree with technical moves along incut granite. This two-pitch route invites climbers to embrace adventure, thoughtful protection, and Eldorado’s rugged charm."
Neptune's Bible unfolds as a distinct adventure in Eldorado Canyon state park, challenging climbers who think they know what a 5.8 route entails. This two-pitch trad climb pushes climbers beyond the conventional, starting with a dynamic approach that involves ascending a nearly bare tree stripped of its typical handholds. Slinging branches for protection, the transition from tree to rock demands focus, balance, and a steady nerve—the true crux lies here, as you carefully tiptoe from wood to stone.
Once past the arboreal start, the route settles into a sequence of incut holds that reward confident footwork and judicious gear placements. Protection opportunities emerge sporadically: a small cam and a fist-sized piece before the final move onto the rock set the tone for a route that blends natural features with tactical climbing strategy. Heading sharply left offers an early belay on a sturdy evergreen, but those eager to embrace the full pitch press ahead.
The climb progresses beneath a hanging, right-facing corner that commands respect and creativity. Negotiating this section means engaging with the rock’s character—offering solid handholds but requiring deft technique. Beyond the corner, a traverse of over 50 feet on a jumbled ledge leads westward to a well-established belay tree, positioned just before a lengthy two-rope rappel. The descent route winds above other classic lines like Apple Strudel and The Untouchables, emphasizing Eldorado’s complex and layered climbing topography.
For those equipped with a 70-meter rope, the belay tree at the ledge can be reached in one rappel, but dropping directly to the ground requires additional maneuvering and possibly two rappels via Dirt Deed Chimney. An alternate finish extends upward and right toward the Rocky Raccoon route or ventures left and up toward the Red Ledge. These options let climbers tailor the descent to their comfort and ambition.
The protection demands a standard rack fitted for Eldorado’s granite, with cams ranging up to 4 inches. While not overloaded with gear placements, thoughtful slinging and rope management ensure efficient progress and minimal drag. Climbing style here balances adventurous moves with the reliability of sound holds and placements, making this route a practical yet exhilarating challenge in one of Colorado's climbing jewels.
Located less than an hour from Boulder, Neptune’s Bible offers a climbing experience that pulls you into the rawness of the canyon’s walls and the quiet rush of the nearby South Boulder Creek. The setting sun throws long shadows across the rock, and the occasional whisper of wind stirs ancient pine needles, reminding you that the mountain is alive and watching as you negotiate its angles. Practical preparation includes securing durable footwear, packing adequate water, and choosing a morning or late afternoon window to avoid the midday heat and crowds.
Approaching Neptune’s Bible involves a brief but uneven hike stepping through forested sections and rocky terrain. GPS coordinates and detailed trail maps are essential to navigate the increasingly popular Redgarden area efficiently. Overall, Neptune’s Bible is perfect for climbers seeking routes that blend solid climbing with an element of unpredictability and natural interaction—where every piece of protection, every step on the rock, and every moment on the tree matters.
The initial transition from tree to rock is exposed and involves fragile slings on limited branches—double check all gear before committing, and be prepared for riskier moves during this pitch. The descent includes a two-rope rappel that demands a 70-meter rope for a single drop; shorter ropes require multiple rappels and familiarity with the Dirt Deed easy route. Loose rock is minimal but stay alert on the jumbled ledge traverse.
Start early or late in the day to avoid peak sun exposure on the climb and approach.
Bring a 70-meter rope for efficient rappels; a shorter rope will require multiple rappels.
Wear climbing shoes with solid edging capability to handle the incut granite holds.
Hydrate well and carry water, as nearby access points are limited on the approach trail.
A standard trad rack covering cams up to 4 inches works well, with duplicates advised if you choose to run all placements in a single pitch. Protection involves a mix of natural slings on branches and traditional gear placements that require thoughtful placement and management of long slings to limit drag.
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