"Mattrimoney offers a focused trad climb along Dines Cliff’s Ponderosa Wall, blending approachable moves with a distinctive mantel crux. An ideal pick for climbers seeking a concise, mindful ascent surrounded by the calm forests of Staunton State Park."
Mattrimoney carves a straightforward line up the right flank of the Ponderosa Wall, offering a refreshing blend of approachable climbing and subtle technical moments. Positioned just to the right of Underklingon, this route pulls you into a quiet pocket of Staunton State Park’s granite expanse where pine needles scatter the trailhead and the scent of forest sap mingles with mountain air. The climb begins by threading moderate moves that demand attention but reward steady hands. Early on, climbers must be mindful not to injure the slender ponderosa sapling rooted against the wall; this natural feature stands as a silent guardian, challenging adventurers to move with respect and precision. The real test unfolds at the mantel move above this sapling—a deliberate pocket of resistance where balance and commitment meet. After overcoming this crux, the wall opens into smoother, confident climbing, yet the top section teases with a slightly run-out traverse as you exit the final crack, encouraging careful judgment before reaching the anchor nestled at the upper ponderosa stand. At 70 feet, Mattrimoney is a single-pitch trad climb best suited for those comfortable with modest protection and natural gear placements. The approach is gentle, weaving under the shadow of towering pines, offering pockets of filtered sunlight and cool shade that make early morning climbs particularly pleasant. Beyond physical demands, this route asks for mindfulness—both in protecting the delicate flora and in placing reliable gear to safeguard the ascent. Gear choice focuses on smaller cams and nuts, emphasizing a minimalist bag tuned to the crack sizes encountered. Whether you’re brushing off a return trip to Staunton or stepping into trad climbing with a clear, manageable challenge, Mattrimoney delivers a blend of nature’s quietly persistent presence and the steady exhilaration of vertical movement. Plan your climb with water, sturdy shoes, and enough daylight to savor the top-out and descent. The route is an invitation not just to ascend, but to engage fully with the quiet rattle of pine cones, the whisper of mountain breezes, and the steady pulse of rock meeting hand.
Watch your footwork near the mantel crux—holds can be slick, and placements may become sparse approaching the topout. The proximity to the sapling means avoid any jerking or 'yarding' on the tree, as it is fragile and does not serve as a natural anchor. Be vigilant during the top-out, where run-out sections increase risk if protection is skipped or poorly placed.
Avoid damaging the ponderosa sapling near the start—climb carefully around it to preserve growth.
Start early to take advantage of cooler temperatures and dappled morning light filtering through the pines.
Bring a minimalist rack focused on smaller cams and nuts—larger gear isn’t needed here.
Plan for a careful top-out; the finish can feel exposed and somewhat run out before reaching the anchor.
Protection ranges from #0.2 to #1 Camalots, supplemented with a handful of nuts. Bring gear suitable for finger- to hand-sized cracks. Anchors need to be self-built with natural placements.
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