"Lucky Charms offers a compact, engaging 30-foot climb at Clay Creek Crag, perfect for newcomers or as a warm-up. Its blend of power and technical moves makes it a rewarding route in a sunny, accessible Colorado setting."
Lucky Charms offers an inviting introduction to sport climbing in the striking terrain of Clay Creek Crag near Telluride and Norwood, Colorado. This single-pitch route stretches 30 feet on solid, clean rock that welcomes climbers of all levels. From the ground up, the wall presents a straightforward approach that quickly sharpens as you reach the first challenge ten feet above the base—a burst of power that pushes you leftward, demanding a focused effort to clear the initial crux. Moving past that, the climb smooths into a rhythm of reliable holds, perfect for gaining confidence and setting a steady pace.
As you near the anchors, a second crux invites a more delicate touch; a longer, technical move to a high pocket just below the top anchors awaits. This feature requires precision and control, rewarding careful footwork and measured movement. The chains at the top provide a secure finish, a reassuring end point after the subtle complexities of the route. Lucky Charms strikes a manageable balance between challenge and approachability, making it ideal for those new to the sport and a solid warm-up for more experienced climbers in the area.
Clay Creek Crag itself is a well-regarded local spot, offering a no-frills climbing experience that focuses on quality rock and direct access. The route's 5.8 PG13 rating hints at moderate difficulty with some runout sections, encouraging climbers to stay mindful of protection but not to shy away from its engaging moves. Bolted with three anchors, the route’s protection layout is simple but effective, ensuring safety while maintaining a clean line.
Located within a broader landscape famously shaped by rugged Colorado peaks and alpine air, this climb lets the rock speak for itself without distractions. The approach is short and straightforward, cutting through open terrain that invites a calm focus before you reach the vertical challenge. With its sunny exposure and durable stone, Lucky Charms is best enjoyed from late spring through early fall when the weather is mild and the rock is dry.
Whether you’re stepping into sport climbing for the first time or dialing in before tackling longer routes nearby, Lucky Charms offers a direct, hands-on experience. Prepare for the moves by warming up your arms and fingers, carry shoes that provide solid edging, and bring enough water to stay refreshed in the dry Colorado sun. This climb rewards clear thinking and steady execution, delivering a satisfying taste of the region’s inviting climbing culture.
The route’s protection is limited to three bolts, so maintaining controlled movement in the runout sections is important. Be cautious of loose dirt near the base, and avoid climbing soon after rain as rock might feel slick.
Approach in lightweight shoes for the short hike and switch to climbing shoes at the base.
Bring enough water; the sun can be strong on the crag during midday.
Watch your footing on the slightly loose dirt near the base before clipping in.
Late spring through early fall offers the best dry and warm climbing conditions.
Equipped with three bolts leading to chains at the anchor, this route requires a standard sport rack. No additional trad gear is necessary due to the fixed protection.
Upload your photos of Lucky Charms and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.