Lonesome Dove and Angry Falcon carve a rugged line up Staunton Rocks in Colorado’s South Platte region, inviting climbers to engage with the rock’s raw character and terrain. This two-pitch trad route offers an unexpectedly solid climb that challenges with subtle features rather than obvious holds. Approach the wall and you’ll see a groove-like feature from below, but as you step closer, it reveals itself as a right-facing dihedral demanding precise stemming and attentive footwork. The first pitch, stretching about 150 feet, tests your balance with bulging sections and delicate moves that settle into easier climbing near the top, though gear placements become scarcer. Rated 5.8 PG-13, it rewards patience and thoughtful protection placement as you move upward.

The second pitch shifts character slightly to a lower-angle face that climbs steadily, offering less technical difficulty at 5.4 PG-13 but a looser protection scenario. The rock here is grittier underhand, encouraging careful smearing as you ascend another 150 feet to the summit. Once on top, the descent demands respect—climbers navigate a northward downclimb along a 4th class ramp system into forested slopes that guide you back to the base. The combination of moderate ratings and runout sections makes this route a solid choice for those comfortable with traditional protection and looking to fine-tune their lead climbing skills in a setting marked by natural exposure and sparse gear.

Staunton Rocks, situated within Staunton State Park, serves up a climbing experience framed by the sweeping forested hills of Colorado’s foothills and the occasional brisk mountain breeze that animates the trees. The approach trail is well maintained but requires steady footing and attention to terrain, as hikers move through pine stands that seem to lean toward the rock faces, almost urging climbers onward. Gear needed includes protection ranging up to a #3 Camalot, with a focus on precise placements in narrower cracks and corners. Though some old bolts are noted in the area, relying on traditional gear remains essential for safety.

For climbers aiming to climb lightweight and efficient, this route rewards solid skills in gear placement under moderate stress and offers a chance to test stamina over two pitches of sustained moderate climbing. The nearby town of Golden, Colorado, serves as the closest hub for supplies and lodging before embarking into the quieter wilderness of Staunton State Park. Timing your climb in the spring through fall ensures drier conditions and more comfortable temperatures, while early mornings give shade on the dihedrals before the Colorado sun warms the rock.

Lonesome Dove and Angry Falcon balance accessibility with subtle challenge, making for an engaging outing that blends climbing technique with the quiet pulse of the Rockies’ edges. This route asks you to read the rock, trust your gear, and move deliberately through a line that proves better quality than it first appears.