HomeClimbingLizard Gizzards

Lizard Gizzards: A Dynamic Slab Sport Climb on PSOM Slab

Bishop, California USA
slab climbing
sport climb
sun exposure
granite
single pitch
fragile holds
Eastern Sierra
Bishop area
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lizard Gizzards
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lizard Gizzards stands out as a focused slab sport climb on the PSOM Slab, where precision footwork meets steady protection through 100 feet of granite. Its delicate holds and sun-soaked exposure make it a rewarding challenge for those chasing sharp slab skills near Bishop, California."

Lizard Gizzards: A Dynamic Slab Sport Climb on PSOM Slab

Lizard Gizzards offers climbers a distinctive slab sport climb on the PSOM Slab, perched within the stark, sun-warmed granite of California’s Eastern Sierra. This one-pitch route stretches approximately 100 feet, pushing a steady 5.8 grade that teases with slabby moves and subtle technical footwork. The granite slab tilts upwards with a polished smoothness interrupted only by thin edges and fragile holds that demand focused attention. As you ascend, the rock’s surface tests your balance and precision, requiring deliberate placements rather than brute strength. The route’s protection layout is straightforward, anchored by 10 bolts that steadily guide you upwards toward an aged set of mussy hooks at the top, a reminder of ephemeral safety in a climbing environment that still shows its raw edges.

The route’s name hints at the jagged plates and flakes that decorate the climb — some of which may feel like delicate chips. Climbers should approach these holds with caution, allowing the rock and their feet to share the load rather than relying solely on tenuous grips. The feeling of the climb is intimate and focused; the slabscape invites a quiet dialogue between climber and stone, punctuated by the distant rustle of wind and the occasional call of a bird carving circles overhead.

Situated in the vast and often austere landscape of Pine Creek Canyon near Bishop, the route benefits from a sun-facing aspect that warms the rock through much of the climbing season. The approach skirts through sparse forest and open granite slabs leading to the base, demanding about 15 minutes over solid trails and navigable terrain. GPS coordinates 37.38788, -118.6742 will guide you precisely to the start.

Given its newer establishment and less frequent ascents, some holds might still host dust or loose flakes, making firm foot placements essential. Footwear with sticky rubber will enhance grip and balance. Early morning or late afternoon ascents are ideal to avoid midday heat, especially during summer months.

This climb appeals to those seeking an approachable slab route with enough challenge to refine slab technique while fitting into a day of climbing in the Bishop area. Though predominantly a sport climb, it blends subtle protection with the raw character of the granite slab’s natural features. Whether you’re a slab enthusiast sharpening skills or just arriving at this granite playground, Lizard Gizzards offers a crisp, clear experience of Eastern Sierra’s granite personality.

Be mindful during the descent, which involves a straightforward walk-off down the slab and into the canyon. Monitor weather conditions as slick granite after rain can transform this route from inviting to hazardous. Hydration and sun protection are non-negotiable essentials in this high-desert setting. In all, it’s a climb that teaches respect for subtle rock nuances and rewards with timeless views and a taste of California’s enduring climbing culture.

Climber Safety

Caution is advised on the so-called 'potato chip' holds—some are fragile flakes that can break under sudden load. The mussy hooks at the top should be treated with respect as older, less secure anchors. Additionally, granite can become slick after rain, making the slab hazardous. Always check weather forecasts and monitor rock conditions before climbing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Mind the fragile, 'potato chip' holds—test carefully before trusting.

Sticky-soled climbing shoes are essential for confident footwork on smooth granite.

Start early or late in the day to avoid the heat of midday sun on the slab.

Watch for dust and loose flakes on newer sections—cleaning may still be needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating for Lizard Gizzards offers an approachable slab challenge, though the grade feels firm due to the delicate balance and careful foot placements required. The crux hinges on trusting thin edges and avoiding over-gripping fragile holds, which adds a mental layer to the physical moves. Compared to other slab climbs in the Bishop area, it leans on precision rather than power, resembling the character of nearby sport slabs but with a unique blend of natural and fixed protection.

Gear Requirements

The route is equipped with 10 bolts running up the slab, offering reliable sport protection to the upper section. The anchor is composed of mussy hooks which require careful clipping and an awareness of their aged condition.

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Tags

slab climbing
sport climb
sun exposure
granite
single pitch
fragile holds
Eastern Sierra
Bishop area