Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingKor Direct to Super Slab

Kor Direct to Super Slab: A Technical Escape on Eldorado’s Redgarden Wall

Boulder, Colorado United States
slab
trad gear
multi-pitch
small cams
runout
eldorado canyon
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Kor Direct to Super Slab
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Kor Direct to Super Slab offers a compact two-pitch trad climb on Eldorado’s Redgarden Wall, blending technical slab moves with a fun, gear-searching second pitch. Ideal for climbers honing footwork and protection skills in a classic Colorado setting."

Kor Direct to Super Slab: A Technical Escape on Eldorado’s Redgarden Wall

Kor Direct to Super Slab offers a straightforward yet engaging two-pitch trad climb tucked beneath the Lower Ramp of Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall. This route presents a clean slab approach that tests your footwork and patience before opening into a more intricate second pitch where gear placements require thoughtful searching. The first pitch starts with low-angle slab climbing rated at 5.6 R, demanding steady balance across polished granite with occasional tenuous footholds. A small fir tree near a rubble ledge marks the belay station — a quiet spot that feels somewhat isolated, giving the climber a moment to gather focus before pushing upward.

The second pitch cranks up the intensity to 5.8 with a route that invites exploration. Gear placements are less obvious here, encouraging climbers to actively engage with the rock, hunting for opportunities to protect against potential falls. As you thread your way upward toward the Grand Giraffe ledge, perched blocks loom as both landmarks and subtle obstacles—requiring cautious moves around them. This pitch, while fun, demands patience and a thoughtful approach to protect safely on less than textbook placements.

Ambitious climbers might combine these two pitches into one long push, but it calls for extended gear, confident single-pitch leads, and comfort with some soloing or runouts. The route relies on a standard rack featuring small cams, reflecting the modest but practical gear needs for the climb.

Set within Eldorado Canyon State Park, this wall is a classic Colorado climbing spot that rewards those willing to methodically navigate its slab dynamics. The route’s position below the Lower Ramp provides some early protection from the sun, making morning climbs cooler, while afternoon light illuminates the granite, highlighting subtle textures that assist foot placement. Eldorado’s crisp mountain air and the stirring sounds of nearby forest blend into a backdrop that remains alive and responsive as you ascend.

Climbers should come prepared with precise shoes for slab traction, the ability to read protected climbing etiquette on less obvious placements, and a solid understanding of runout risk management. Hydration is essential, and the close proximity to Boulder makes it an accessible outing for a half-day adventure. Approach involves a moderate trek from the park’s main access trails, rewarding you with sweeping views of canyon walls and the Front Range beyond.

Kor Direct to Super Slab isn’t a flashy or high-profile dynasty of climbing but serves as an excellent practice ground for slab skills and mental steadiness in placement decisions. It invites climbers to tune into the rock, to listen to the subtle feedback beneath their fingers and feet, and to embrace a rhythm that combines cautious strategy with steady progress. The route’s modest length and thoughtful protection needs make it a compelling option for trad climbers looking for a solid, accessible challenge in one of Colorado’s iconic climbing areas.

Climber Safety

The slabby first pitch involves runouts and sparse protection around a rubble ledge; maintain precise footwork to compensate. The second pitch requires careful gear placement searching—ignore the urge to rush moves as loose or inadequate pro can significantly increase the danger. Watch for unstable blocks near the Grand Giraffe ledge, and approach with a cautious mindset.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to benefit from morning shade on the slabs before sun hits the wall.

Bring extendable slings to manage runout sections safely on the second pitch.

Practice slab footing and slab protection techniques if unfamiliar with this style.

Approach trails are well-marked but allow extra time for gear hauling and route-finding below the Lower Ramp.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8- PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 R, Kor Direct to Super Slab subtly pushes climbers to manage risk with runouts and sparse gear placements. The grade feels approachable but carries a seriousness due to protection challenges, particularly on pitch two where placements can be tricky to locate. Compared to other Eldorado moderates, this climb demands more mental focus on slab technique and gear judgment, making it a valuable step up for those progressing on traditional routes.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack emphasizing small cams to secure the second pitch’s less obvious placements. Extensions are recommended for longer reaches while navigating runouts. Climbing shoes with pointed toes and sticky rubber improve slab traction.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Kor Direct to Super Slab and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

slab
trad gear
multi-pitch
small cams
runout
eldorado canyon