HomeClimbingIf 6 Was 9

If 6 Was 9

Buffalo Creek, Colorado USA
hand crack
trad gear
short corner crux
single pitch
south facing
Colorado
buffalo creek
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
If 6 Was 9
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"If 6 Was 9 offers a crisp, technical trad climb on Colorado’s Upper Gemstone. Its clean hand crack and short, steep corner deliver a satisfying challenge for climbers looking to sharpen their crack technique and gear placements in a quiet, high-country setting."

If 6 Was 9

Situated in the rugged expanse of Upper Gemstone, the route “If 6 Was 9” invites climbers into a compelling blend of technical crack climbing and strategic movement. Just beyond the vantage point of the Lower Gemstone, the approach leads you through a well-worn path before a short but demanding scramble up the hillside. The climb centers on a distinctive South-facing dihedral, flanked by a clean hand crack carving its way up the right side of the rock face. As you begin the ascent, fingers grip the well-defined crack as it challenges your jamming technique and carefully balanced liebacks. Approximately 65 feet above, a broad ledge offers a moment of rest and a chance to survey the terrain below. From here, the climbing tightens into a short, steep corner that tests your precision and power at 5.9. With careful footwork and controlled movements, you push through this crux to reach the belay station perched comfortably above. The descent is uncomplicated—a straightforward walk-off to climber’s right, avoiding the need for technical rappel. This single-pitch, 100-foot adventure blends traditional protection demands with an engaging sequence of moves that reward preparation and focus.

The climbing terrain here suits nuts and cams up to 2 inches, with steady placements that assure steady progress but also call for attentive gear selection. The rock’s texture offers a reliable bite, accentuating the natural features without hiding loose sections or unreliable holds. Given the moderate exposure on the dihedral’s face and the exposure on the corner, familiarity with trad placements and confident crack technique will enhance your experience while keeping risk in check.

Upper Gemstone itself feels like a quiet stronghold perched in Colorado’s South Platte corridor, its elevated position providing expansive views and a sense of calm wilderness far from crowded trailheads. The route’s south-facing aspect means afternoon sunlight warms the rock into the cooler months, making late spring through early fall the prime window to aim for this climb. Early mornings can bring chill, especially in shoulder seasons, so layering your approach gear and starting mid-morning balances comfort and optimal rock temperature.

Approaching “If 6 Was 9” demands a sharp eye: after passing the Lower Gemstone, the hillside climb includes some loose sections that reward slow, deliberate foot placements. Keep to the path as you near the sizable dihedral, looking for the hand crack that splits the face just right of it. The route avoids overhanging roofs or sustained strenuous climbs, trading those for technical, precise moves and a natural flow along the rock’s features.

For those seeking a veteran-friendly route that still offers moments of focused challenge, this climb strikes a compelling balance. It’s approachable enough to gain confidence on traditional gear placements but engaging enough to satisfy those who appreciate a solid 5.9 test of footwork, body positioning, and gear strategy. The views at the top remind you why these foothills maintain their quiet allure, with broad skies and forested ridges framing the descent.

Climber Safety

Loose rock on the approach hillside can catch climbers off-guard; move deliberately on the scramble section. On the climb, place pro carefully in the crack before committing to the steep corner, as fall potential increases past the initial jams.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Lower Gemstone trail, then scramble carefully up to the dihedral—watch for loose rock near the base.

Start climbing mid-morning for best rock temperature and sun exposure.

Wear sticky-soled shoes to maximize grip on the crack and corner holds.

After the climb, walk offs are best on climber’s right; avoid steep brush and unstable talus.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels honest, with a solid crux on a steep corner that steps up from moderate crack jams earlier on the pitch. While the moves aren’t sustained, the technical demand and gear placements add a layer of complexity that elevates the route beyond a straightforward 5.8. Compared to nearby climbs in the Gemstones, this route offers a bit more commitment and precision, rewarding steady gear placements and crack technique.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of nuts and cams up to 2 inches to cover the hand crack and corner placements. The gear tends to be straightforward, with solid protection opportunities but spot vigilance needed when placing small cams on the steeper moves.

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Tags

hand crack
trad gear
short corner crux
single pitch
south facing
Colorado
buffalo creek