"Huginn delivers a focused test of hand crack technique on a solid granite face with a challenging overhang crux. Located in Staunton State Park’s Raven area, this single-pitch climb weaves up a clean crack system offering an accessible yet dynamic trad experience."
Huginn offers a commendable introduction to traditional climbing within the rugged terrain of Staunton State Park’s Raven area. The climb begins just left of a group of notable bench rocks, where a clean, inviting hand crack slices through an overhang at about head height. This section demands precise foot placements to manage the crux—establishing footing above the overhang is essential and tests subtle balance and technique. For those seeking a slightly less demanding start, an alternate approach at 5.7 difficulty invites you to step boldly from the bench rocks and join the main crack 20 feet up. This path requires careful movement across a low-angle slab and ledge to the right before engaging the steeper wall.
Above the overhang, you’ll navigate a challenging transition over the shoulder, intersecting with Muninn’s route near its ninth bolt, offering a curious blend of climbing lines in close proximity. Continuing upward, Huginn shares the upper crack system with Muninn, demanding another technical move around 5.8 difficulty to gain the final finger crack near the top. Though the pitch is relatively short—around 88 feet—it packs a rewarding complexity and calls for steady hands and confident footwork throughout.
Protection follows a classic traditional rack setup, with reliable placements available in the featured crack and adjacent rock features. The descent benefits from Muninn’s two-bolt anchor, providing a secure rappel point for a smooth return to the ground.
Situated just a short drive from Denver, Staunton State Park’s Raven area combines forested approaches with expansive views of South Platte's rolling terrain, making it an accessible day trip for climbers eager to test their skills on solid granite. The moderate difficulty of Huginn positions it well for intermediate trad climbers looking to sharpen crack technique without committing to a longer multi-pitch adventure.
Plan your outing with an early start to avoid afternoon heat, wear stiff-soled shoes for slab sections, and bring plenty of water. The approach trail is straightforward but rocky, so sturdy boots are recommended. Summertime offers the best conditions, while late spring and early fall can bring chillier mornings and varying rock moisture.
Whether you arrive to refine your hand jamming or to enjoy a crisp alpine setting with manageable terrain, Huginn stands out as a climb that rewards precision, offers brief but engaging exposure, and connects climbers intimately with the distinctive character of Staunton’s granite walls.
The tricky foot placement above the overhang is the climb’s crux and a potential fall zone; ensure solid pro placements early and maintain focused footwork. The rappel anchor shared with Muninn uses two bolts and is secure, but always double-check knots and hardware before descending.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun heating the slab sections.
Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes to negotiate slabby terrain effectively.
Carry at least two liters of water for hydration during the approach and climb.
Approach trail is rocky; hiking boots with good traction are recommended.
A standard traditional rack suits Huginn well, with solid opportunities to place protection along the main crack and adjoining features. Utilize the two-bolt anchor shared with Muninn for a reliable rappel station.
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