"Handcrack presents a straightforward yet technically satisfying crack climb at Golden Cliffs. This single-pitch trad route challenges your hand-jamming skills on pristine rock, with reliable protection and an accessible top-rope anchor."
For climbers chasing the pure satisfaction of a true handcrack, the Handcrack route at Golden Cliffs in Colorado offers a straightforward yet rewarding experience. Situated at the far left end of the cliff, this single-pitch climb threads a clean, consistent hand-sized crack that climbs the right wall of a large dihedral known as Chimney Route. As you approach the base, the dry, textured rock invites your fingers and palms to find purchase, promising an engaging crack climb that tests technique more than raw power.
The route stretches about 45 feet from the base to the rim, where a two-bolt anchor with rings, installed in 2001, secures your descent. This fixed anchor allows safe top-rope access, perfect for climbers who prefer to warm up or refine their crack skills without leading. Despite its moderate 5.8 rating, the route demands solid hand-jamming skills and good gear management. Protection mainly relies on medium to large cams, up to a #3.5 Camalot, which fit the crack’s consistent width.
You'll find the approach requires a brief hike to the far western edge of the cliff—easily manageable but enough to remind you this climb sits in a quiet corner, away from the busier sections of North Table Mountain. The sun tends to light the face in the morning hours, making early starts preferable to avoid afternoon heat. With the route's orientation and elevation, a spring or fall visit offers the most comfortable climbing temperatures.
Local insight emphasizes carrying a rack with multiple midsize cams, as the crack’s width remains steady but demands precise placements. The two-bolt anchor is solid but spaced wide, meaning you’ll need to rely on slings rather than quickdraws for efficient clipping. A gentle reminder to respect the rock and vegetation by using the established anchor and avoiding walking off the top to reduce erosion—this small conservation step helps keep the area pristine for future climbers.
Handcrack is beloved as a pure, technical trad test piece in a region better known for mixed and sport routes. Its character invites climbers eager to sharpen crack climbing fundamentals while soaking in expansive views of Golden and beyond. Whether you’re topping out to rappel back or setting a top-rope, this route delivers clear, direct climbing with a satisfying line and a manageable level of commitment.
In all, Handcrack offers a slice of classic Colorado climbing that’s accessible yet sufficiently challenging. With solid protection, a simple approach, and a welcoming environment, it’s an ideal spot to sharpen your trad skills or introduce friends to the nuances of crack jams. When you’re ready to step onto the crack, expect the rock to demand attention but reward patience and calculated moves. Be prepared, set your cams well, and enjoy a climb that quietly stands out in the Golden cliffs’ storied offerings.
The two-bolt anchor at the top is widely spaced, so prepare your anchoring with slings rather than draw extension. Take care to avoid loose rock near the base and stay mindful of sun exposure during hotter months.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the face.
Top-rope setup is simple via the fixed anchor—bring a static rope or leave cams at the top.
Avoid walking off the cliff top to minimize erosion.
Carry a rack focused on mid to large cams to fill the crack securely.
Rack up medium to large cams, with sizes up to #3.5 Camalot required to protect the consistent hand-sized crack. Use slings for the spaced two-bolt anchor as quickdraws won’t fit well.
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