"Hand Job Direct on Cynical Pinnacle is a focused single-pitch trad climb featuring steep hand jams and a punchy crux. This 5.9 granite crack offers a blend of technical moves and approachable access beneath the towering formations of South Platte."
Carved into the rugged granite of Colorado’s Cathedral Spires Area, Hand Job Direct on Cynical Pinnacle offers a striking single-pitch trad climb that challenges you to read its cracks with careful hands and steady focus. This 100-foot route sits beneath the more famous Hand Job line, unfolding up the same face but delivering an experience that’s both approachable and demanding in equal measure. The climb begins in the quiet, pine-fringed foothills east of South Platte, where the forest floor crunches underfoot and birds punctuate the early morning air. Your journey starts from the road, trekking through terrain marked by well-worn paths toward the start zones of Center Route and Wunsch’s. Watch for the Monkey’s crack — noted by a small tree rigged with slings — a subtle landmark signaling your entry into climbing territory.
From the ground, Hand Job Direct appears as a clean crack system, beckoning with its straightforward line. The initial moves compel you into steep hand jams where you’ll test your grip strength and body positioning. As you ascend, the crack widens slightly, revealing the route’s crux: a brief but demanding sequence requiring precise hand placements and selective footwork. Transitioning rightward above this bottleneck, you enter a narrower hands crack rated 5.8+, demanding continuous, confident jams until you reach a walk-off ledge. The final descent calls for careful, exposed scrambling to the left — a chance to stay connected with the rock until solid footing meets the forest below.
Protection is well-supported, calling for a rack up to #3 Camalot, with doubles in #2 and #3 sizes aiding placement redundancy. The granite here demands clean pro placements but rewards patience and technique. Given its single pitch nature, Hand Job Direct is perfect for climbers seeking a quick, focused adventure that blends technical climbing with easy access and spectacular backcountry ambiance.
Weather and timing are crucial. Morning light softens the rock and forest, offering ideal climbing conditions before afternoon heat intensifies. The route benefits from cooler, drier days to maintain secure friction in cracks and on ledges. Keep an eye on local forecasts, as sudden storms can sweep through the mountains, turning exposed scrambling into slippery risk.
Hand Job Direct balances the raw challenge of traditional crack climbing with practical approach and descent logistics, making it an excellent choice for climbers stepping up their trad game or those who appreciate riveting granite moves without committing to multi-pitch complexity. Prepare your rack carefully, hydrate along the mixed forest roads, and anticipate an engaging encounter with this quietly demanding spire. Your hands will tell the story of the climb as you move through changing crack widths, testing technique against nature’s raw offering.
This route’s charm lies in its blend of accessible wilderness and tangible climbing proficiency, rewarding those ready to engage physically and mentally with Colorado’s granite cathedral.
The walk-off ledge descent involves exposed scrambling that requires sure-footedness and attention. Loose rock and narrow footholds can catch the unwary—move deliberately and consider a helmet for potential rockfall during descent.
Start early to catch the morning cooler temperatures for better friction.
Look for the small tree with slings marking the nearby Monkey's crack as a reliable trail marker.
Be prepared for exposed scrambling on the descent; good footwear with grip is essential.
Check weather forecasts carefully, as afternoon storms can make terrain slippery and hazardous.
Bring a traditional rack with doubles in #2 and #3 Camalots and protection up to #3 for secure placements throughout the varied crack sizes.
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