HomeClimbingHalf Day's Work

Half Day's Work: A Swift Trad Climb on Long's Peak

Estes Park, Colorado United States
alpine trad
moderate protection
slab moves
old pins
chimney
long pitches
Rocky Mountain NP
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Half Day's Work
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Half Day's Work offers a focused alpine trad climb on Long's Peak with firm granite and a straightforward line, suitable for climbers seeking a 2-hour push through solid pitches. Expect varied technical moves, spaced protection, and panoramic alpine views along this moderate 5.9- route."

Half Day's Work: A Swift Trad Climb on Long's Peak

Half Day's Work lives up to its name as an approachable, efficient alpine trad climb tucked into the rugged folds of Ship's Prow on Long's Peak. It offers climbers a satisfying blend of technical moves, clean lines, and confident rock—all wrapped in a high alpine setting that commands your focus and respect. Though moderate in grade at 5.9-, the route delivers a tangible sense of adventure without the commitment of a full-day grind. The ascent typically finishes in roughly two hours from base to summit, perfect for climbers looking to enjoy solid climbing without sacrificing the rest of the day to a marathon push.

The route begins by angling up a well-defined right-facing corner system to the left of the more crowded Man Overboard and Portal climbs. This first section covers two pitches, which can be stitched into a single, flowing climb with careful rope management and an 80-meter rope. Early on, you’ll encounter a handful of aging pins nestled near a tightening crux before easing onto a grassy ledge that offers welcome respite and a chance to gather yourself. The rock here is generally solid, showcasing weathered granite that holds well underfoot and finger jamming alike, though some protection placements can feel spaced out—demanding thoughtful gear placement and attention.

From this ledge, the route drifts slightly left before veering right on lower-angled slabs that exhibit a mixture of steady technical moves and occasional runouts. This stretch crosses a prominent slab that challenges your balance and footwork, finishing at a large ledge secured by an old-school pin belay left over from a 1960s aid ascent. Despite the historic hardware, this pitch is easily backed up with modern cams.

The next pitch keeps your interest high, moving left from the belay onto rugged, unyielding rock. The right-facing corner here is overhung and littered with loose rock, so opting to climb left and then back right near the buttress’s peak offers a cleaner but more technical line. At the chimney section, you’ll need to choose between a moderate but poorly protected chimney on the right, or the more technical corner on the left, each demanding a different style but leading upward to the summit in a sustained push of over 60 meters. At the top, safe belay anchors require some effort to assemble, often involving threading a cord around large boulders that promise solid protection but reward patience and care.

Gear-wise, this climb favors a light alpine rack: a full set of stoppers, cams up to three inches, and plenty of long slings to tackle the elongated pitches and retrofit older pins. Extra cams in the finger to hand size range come highly recommended, especially if you plan to link pitches for speed or efficiency.

The climb belongs to a dramatic and historically significant section of Rocky Mountain National Park’s alpine terrain, granting breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. The granite’s clean surface and the moderate grade provide an excellent playground for those seeking a fast yet fulfilling alpine trad experience. Seasonal timing is crucial here: summer afternoons bring warmth and steady weather, but mornings are often your best bet to avoid heat and maximize rock quality.

The descent typically involves a careful downclimb combined with strategic rappels. Plan accordingly, as the terrain below can be steep and uneven, demanding vigilance to avoid loose rock and tricky footing. Bringing a topo or consulting local beta is wise.

Half Day’s Work rewards climbers who come prepared—both with the right gear and the mental focus to navigate a well-appointed yet occasionally sparse protection route. It stands as a worthy climb for those looking to move efficiently through impressive alpine terrain while testing their trad skills in a varied and engaging setting.

Climber Safety

Watch out for occasional well-spaced protection that requires solid trad skills to bridge gaps safely. The chimney pitch presents some poor protection zones and loose rock, requiring caution. Approach and descent terrain can be steep and unstable—prepare accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches4
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon rockfall and heat exposure.

Carry an 80m rope to link pitches and minimize time on exposed ledges.

Scout the chimney section carefully; choose your line based on comfort with protection and style.

Prepare for a technical downclimb or multiple rappels; don't underestimate the descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels true to grade with a few moves that test gear placements and confidence amid moderate runouts. The crux near the upper old pins demands attention but remains within approachable limits. Compared to neighboring routes, it offers a balanced challenge that’s less committing than Man Overboard but more engaging than Portal’s lower sections.

Gear Requirements

A light alpine rack with a full set of stoppers, cams up to 3 inches, and long slings is essential. Finger- to hand-sized cams come in handy for linking pitches and managing sparse protection near cruxes.

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Tags

alpine trad
moderate protection
slab moves
old pins
chimney
long pitches
Rocky Mountain NP