"Grip offers a tight, technical 35-foot sport climb on granite above Magpie in Staunton State Park. With a powerful crux on the face and the option to link pitches, it’s a tactical challenge that rewards focused climbing and precise foot placement."
Grip is a brief but engaging sport climbing pitch set within the rugged confines of The Raven area at Staunton State Park, Colorado. This route delivers a punch of movement packed into its short 35-foot length, making it an ideal choice for climbers seeking a focused challenge with a tactical edge. Starting from a firm stance beneath a prominent right-facing corner, the climb asks you to commit confidently as you navigate outward around an overhang. The crux emerges early as you work to secure your footholds on a demanding face, requiring precise balance and trust in the bolts that mark your path ahead.
The climb’s proximity to Magpie offers an enticing option to link the two pitches into a seamless 90-foot journey of varied terrain—an approach well worth considering for those looking to maximize their time on the wall. For single-pitch ascents, Grip offers a compact burst of dynamic climbing that demands attention to both technique and body position. The bolts are spaced to encourage smooth clipping, yet the overhung section forces focused footwork and a mental push to maintain contact with the rock.
Staunton State Park’s landscape adds a gritty atmospheric backdrop with its textured granite faces that catch the Colorado sun, casting shifting shadows that change the route’s mood depending on the hour. The ledge system south of the Grey Jay anchor serves as a strategic access point, providing an alternative approach that might suit different climbing styles or party logistics.
From a practical standpoint, bringing a quickdraw set that matches the route’s bolt count makes for an efficient lead, while the compact nature of the climb means climbers can easily blend it into a larger climbing session in the area. The accessible but technical nature of Grip makes it a popular option for climbers progressing through the 5.8 grade, offering just enough complexity to sharpen skills without overwhelming.
Whether you’re here to test your footwork on the face crux or enjoy a crisp single-pitch with solid protection, Grip embodies the spirit of accessible sport climbing in the Colorado backcountry. Plan to arrive early to catch the warmth of the morning sun or later in the day when the rock cools, and bring layers to manage the shifting mountain air. Hydration and solid climbing shoes will keep you comfortable through the sequence’s subtle shifts in friction and balance. This climb invites precise execution—just the kind of experience that hones your efficiency on the wall while placing you firmly in the moment.
Bolt protection is solid but spaced to reward careful clipping. The overhang requires secure stance maintenance; avoid rushing the feet placement to prevent slips. Be mindful of the short but bold nature of the climb—stamina is less a factor than finesse.
Combine Grip with Magpie for a longer, more varied 90-foot climb.
Approach via the ledge system south of the Grey Jay anchor for an alternate start.
Start early or late in the day to avoid harsh midday sun on the face.
Wear sticky climbing shoes to manage the face’s demanding foot placements.
The route holds 4 to 5 bolts when climbed independently, or 15 bolts total when combined with Magpie via the common anchor. Quickdraws matching this count ensure smooth clipping on steeper sections.
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