Gaudi Park - Ten Sleep Canyon's Rocky Playground

Ten Sleep, Wyoming
sport climbing
single pitch
Wyoming climbing
high elevation
classic routes
wildlife closures
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport | Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Bighorn National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Gaudi Park in Wyoming’s Ten Sleep Canyon offers climbers a scenic, elevated playground at nearly 8,000 feet. With classic routes like Architects on Acid and I Fought the Law, this area blends technical challenges and striking geological features amid a dramatic western landscape."

Gaudi Park - Ten Sleep Canyon's Rocky Playground

Roughly 7,954 feet above sea level, Gaudi Park is a distinctive climbing enclave tucked in Wyoming’s Ten Sleep Canyon, accessed by following the Valhalla trail beyond the Barbareena area. The gateway landmark for this zone is an unmistakable pillar known as Architects on Acid — a beacon for climbers seeking classic routes with a satisfying mix of technicality and exposure.

Climbing here rewards both mind and muscle. The rock presents a textured canvas where a handful of standout routes hold their own reputation, including Rattlesnake Shake (5.9), the aptly named Pigs in Zen (5.10c), and the challenging Wyoming Disco (5.11a). Many will seek out the standout pitches of Architects on Acid (5.10d), prized for their line quality and flow, alongside Espantabruja (The Witch Scarer), which tests climbers at sustained 5.11b difficulty. While grades reflect solid sport climbing, the routes maintain a balance that suits adventurous intermediates and experts alike—offering both pumpy cruxes and rewarding rests.

The setting enhances the climbing experience. Approaching via the Valhalla trail traverses shaded forest sections that temper summer heat and leads climbers past classic Ten Sleep features — a good reminder to pack sturdy boots and a light rain jacket given the seasonal precipitation. Summer days are generally warm but brief in length at this elevation, so early starts maximize daylight and cooler temperatures. Spring and early fall provide a favorable window for those chasing optimal dry rock and fewer crowds.

Visitors should be mindful of active wildlife protections within the greater Ten Sleep area. Recent discoveries of raptor nests near the Moby Dick climbing zone have led to seasonal closures impacting nearby routes and prohibiting new bolt placements. These conservation efforts underscore the delicate balance between sport climbing and environmental stewardship in this National Forest region.

Gear requirements here mirror a classic sport climbing setup—climbers will want a well-rounded rack of quickdraws, reliable end anchors, and helmets to protect against rockfall. While Gaudi Park features mostly bolted routes, some cracks call for trad gear, so a mixed rack with cams and nuts is advised to cover all contingencies.

Descending from routes is typically accomplished via downclimbing or short rappels. Climbers should scout anchor stations prior to the ascent and respect route closures at all times. The elevation and canyon setting also mean weather can shift rapidly; staying alert to forecast changes is crucial.

Gaudi Park sits within the Powder River Ranger District of the Bighorn National Forest, a protected area known for its rugged ridges, wide canyon vistas, and quiet wilderness. This spot offers an authentic western climbing experience without the heavy crowds of more developed destinations. The landscape invites a grounded, practical approach—pack layers, bring solid climbing shoes, and prepare for a day of concentrated effort rewarded by sweeping views and satisfying sends.

Classic climbs here blend technical moves and subtle rests in ways that make them memorable challenges and bold fun. Climbers aiming to experience the pulse of Ten Sleep Canyon will find Gaudi Park both a reliable escape and a zone to sharpen their skills amid Wyoming’s soaring cliffs and calming natural rhythm. Just beyond the rocks, open sky and fresh mountain air beckon — the perfect backdrop for any climbing pilgrimage.

Climber Safety

Be alert to seasonal wildlife restrictions protecting active raptor nests, which may include temporary closures. Rock quality is mostly sound but climbers should wear helmets and check anchors due to recent changes in bolt placements. Weather can change quickly at elevation, so bring appropriate gear and stay informed.

Area Details

TypeSport | Mixed
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and maximize cooler morning conditions.

Watch for seasonal raptor closures, especially near Moby Dick sector; check for updates before visiting.

Pack layers — mornings and evenings at this elevation can be chilly even in summer.

Approach via the Valhalla trail past Barbareena area and locate the Architect on Acid pillar as your landmark.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The routes at Gaudi Park tend to offer solid technical challenges within the 5.9 to 5.11b range. The grading feels generally consistent with other Ten Sleep Canyon sport climbs—neither notably soft nor excessively sandbagged. Climbers can expect well-protected lines with a few pumpy sections that reward good technique.

Gear Requirements

Routes are predominantly bolted sport climbs mixed with some traditional lines requiring cams and nuts. A rack of quickdraws, helmet, and a selection of trad gear is recommended for all contingencies. Fixed anchors are present but check for any recent route changes or bolt removals.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
Wyoming climbing
high elevation
classic routes
wildlife closures