Exploring Sphinx Sector: Ten Sleep Canyon’s Distinct Stone Enclave

Ten Sleep, Wyoming
sport
high elevation
quiet
technical movement
summer climbing
Length: 55–85 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Bighorn National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sphinx Sector is a distinct break in Ten Sleep Canyon’s cliff line, offering a quieter, quality-focused experience for climbers craving variety in movement and difficulty. Seasoned classics like Egyptian Rat Screw and Hot Milk combine with sweeping views and high-elevation air for an unforgettable session. Stay alert to access updates, and prepare for a rewarding chapter in your climbing story."

Exploring Sphinx Sector: Ten Sleep Canyon’s Distinct Stone Enclave

Perched at an airy 8,041 feet, the Sphinx Sector offers a unique slice of Ten Sleep Canyon that draws curiosity and challenge with its distinct outcropping of stone. Unlike the more continuous walls nearby, the Sphinx Sector presents a break—a literal gap in the canyon before the formation emerges again, inviting climbers into its quiet domain. This character of separation carves out its own mood: less traveled, more contemplative, and ready for adventure.

Approaching from lower in the canyon, the path leads past the notorious Superratic wall before the main cliff line vanishes for about 25 yards. What lies beyond is the Sphinx Sector—a cluster of routes that make the most of this distinctive chunk of rock. Framed by the classic Wyoming high country, climbers are met with pine-edged vistas and the subtle hush that comes with climbing at elevation, where wind and birdsong often replace crowds and chatter.

Climbing here is all about variety across a spectrum of difficulty, from approachable 5.10s through to the athletic rigors of the 5.13s. Enthusiasts of solid movement will want to get on Egyptian Rat Screw (5.10d), a favorite that balances technical demands and rewarding flow. The local standout, Hot Milk (5.11c), earns high marks for its entertaining sequences, often described as a satisfying test piece for those breaking into the grade. If you’re ready to turn up the intensity, Good Luck Jonathan (5.12b) and Rude Cowboys (5.13a) stand ready with steep challenges and thoughtful climbing, each offering something new to those seeking to push their limits.

Navigating Sphinx Sector’s terrain, you’re treated to the unmistakable feel of high-elevation limestone that Wyoming is known for. The air is cooler, the rock solid, and while the sector isn’t sprawling, it packs quality into its short stretch—an ideal focus for a half-day mission or a targeted stop along a tour of the canyon. On good days, sunbeams cut through the crisp mountain atmosphere, illuminating sculpted lines and offering comfortable conditions, especially during the height of summer.

Access and environmental stewardship go hand in hand here. Climbers should stay aware of ongoing raptor closures and route development restrictions: due to monitored nesting in the greater area, portions of the canyon are closed seasonally and new routes are on hold per Forest Service guidelines. It’s all part of a collective effort with the local climbing coalition and the Forest Service to keep the environment, and the climbing experience, sustainable for years to come.

The sector offers easy navigation, clean approaches, and straightforward descents; but, as always in the Wyoming high country, check weather before you go—conditions can shift rapidly at this elevation. With a bit of planning and respect for local guidelines, a day at the Sphinx Sector becomes more than just another outing; it feels like your own pocket of the canyon, a place where climbing is a focused, personal pursuit, surrounded by wild landscape and big Wyoming sky.

Climber Safety

Care is advised—weather at 8,000 feet can change quickly, rock is generally solid but always check fixed hardware due to recent modification activity elsewhere in the canyon. Be vigilant for wildlife and respect all posted closures.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length55–85 feet

Local Tips

Mornings offer the coolest climbing—plan for midday shade in peak summer.

The walk-in past Superratic is easy but rocky; sturdy shoes go a long way.

Check for updated raptor closures or any access changes before heading out.

Keep your kit light: water, helmet, and tape for high-quality limestone days.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades at Sphinx Sector are in line with the rest of Ten Sleep—typically fair with the occasional technical crux. If you’re used to pockets and precise footwork, the climbing here will play to your strengths. Climbers coming from more traditional, old-school crags may find the movement modern and the ratings approachable by comparison.

Gear Requirements

Standard sport climbing hardware with a dozen quickdraws covers nearly all of the established lines. No trad gear required. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea, particularly on steeper starts.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sport
high elevation
quiet
technical movement
summer climbing