Sphinx Wall - Wyoming’s Hidden White Rock Crag

Ten Sleep, Wyoming
sport climbing
single pitch
multi pitch
bolted routes
Wyoming
clean rock
crack climbing
face climbing
high desert
Length: 230 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, multi pitch
Protected Place
Powder River Ranger District, US Forest Service
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sphinx Wall stands out in Ten Sleep Canyon as a luminous stretch of white rock featuring a diverse range of bolted sport climbs. From technical face routes to challenging crack lines, this crag offers an inviting mix of climbing styles framed by Wyoming’s high desert backdrop."

Sphinx Wall - Wyoming’s Hidden White Rock Crag

Sphinx Wall emerges as a striking slab of gleaming white rock tucked between the Superratic and French Cattle Ranch areas within Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming. This wall commands attention on the trail connecting those two sectors, a beacon for climbers keen on scaled lines that marry clean rock texture with thoughtfully bolted routes. As you approach, the cliff’s sharp angles and clean faces promise a day of varied climbing—each route offering a unique challenge from technical faces to powerful cracks.

The crag feels like a compact gallery of rock climbing styles. On the far left, the short but intense Unknown Horst tests climbers with a steep 5.10d face, demanding precise footwork and a strong start. Moving right, the iconic Wyoming Wave crack pitches into a roof section that climbers eye skeptically—not just for its bold moves, but for the pure aura of the line itself. Rude Cowboys carries a 5.13+ rating and winds through a crack that swells into a bulging face, offering a bold encounter for those pushing their limits in crack climbing.

For those who prefer sport routes with sharp holds and adventurous sequences, options like Little Man and Good Luck Jonathan fill the middle sector with thin, bouldery starts and delicate pocket climbing. Hot Milk adds a flake layback opener leading into steep pockets and edges—ideal for climbers who relish a varied hand and finger workout with solid protection underfoot. Higher up and a bit off to the right, Chocolate Mescalin asserts itself with dynamic movements, including a challenging 5.12+ dyno that will stretch your coordination and explosiveness.

The far right edge of the crag reveals Brow’s on Fleek, a two-pitch testpiece tackling a blue and black rock line that angles left, requiring a 70-meter rope. This multi-pitch climb extends the experience beyond single-pitch sport climbs and invites climbers to savor exposure combined with technical edge work and crack climbing.

The overall vibe of Sphinx Wall is quietly confident—this is not a crowded playground but a place that rewards preparation and respect for the rock. The white stone is smooth and clean, demanding good foot technique and attention to reading holds, while the bolted routes offer security without a sense of overprotection.

Getting here means approaching via either the Superratic or French Cattle Ranch trails. The hike is straightforward, letting climbers arrive fresh and ready to focus on movement rather than navigation. Wyoming’s high-desert climate delivers cool mornings turning warm by midday during prime climbing months from late spring through early fall. Weather can shift quickly, so climbers should come prepared for sun exposure and occasional afternoon breezes.

Beyond climbing, it’s important to note ongoing access considerations. There are active raptor closures nearby, specifically the Moby Dick area, through mid-August to protect nesting birds. New route development is currently prohibited to preserve the natural character and safety of the existing climbs. Climbers should stay updated with local regulations and respect seasonal restraints to ensure continued access.

Classic climbs here blend history and challenge: Egyptian Rat Screw (5.10d) offers a fun, technical test; Hot Milk (5.11c) combines movement and variety; Good Luck Jonathan (5.12b) pushes into solid technical climbing; and Rude Cowboys (5.13a) tests commitment and power on tough crack-to-face terrain. These names are part of the climbing conversation in Ten Sleep Canyon and invite climbers to explore Sphinx Wall’s offerings with a fresh perspective.

Whether you're gearing up for your first visit or are returning to explore new lines, Sphinx Wall delivers a crisp Wyoming climbing experience anchored in sharp rock, strategic challenges, and stunning canyon surroundings. The mix of single and multi-pitch climbs, the approachable trail access, and the quiet majesty of the white rock all come together as an essential stop in northeast Wyoming's climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Rock is clean but can be slick in early morning or after rain. Watch for loose gravel on approach trails and bring a helmet to guard against occasional rockfall. Be mindful of seasonal raptor closures near nearby sectors to avoid disturbing wildlife.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch, multi pitch
Length230 feet

Local Tips

Access the wall by hiking the trail between Superratic and French Cattle Ranch campsites.

Start early to catch morning shade on the wall and avoid midday heat.

Check for seasonal raptor closures, especially from spring to mid-August.

Bring plenty of water as the approach offers little natural shade.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades at Sphinx Wall range from approachable 5.10d faces to more demanding 5.13 cracks and overhangs. Overall, the routes feel true to their ratings; the climbs are generally stiff but fair, rewarding solid technical skills and strong crack technique. Compared to other areas in Ten Sleep, Sphinx Wall offers a balanced experience without inflated grades or overly polished holds.

Gear Requirements

Climbers should bring a 70-meter rope for multi-pitch routes like Brow's on Fleek and standard sport climbing draws for bolted lines. Protection is fixed with bolts, making quickdraws essential. No trad gear is required.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
multi pitch
bolted routes
Wyoming
clean rock
crack climbing
face climbing
high desert