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Futile Laments: The Steepest 5.9 in Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado USA
trad
5.9
roof
arete
wind tower
technical
runout
single pitch
Length: 170 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Futile Laments
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Futile Laments is Eldorado Canyon’s sharp-edged single-pitch test piece, featuring the steepest sustained 5.9 climbing in the area. Nose to the rock, plan for technical moves on overhanging flakes and a demanding roof section that demand attention and solid pro placements."

Futile Laments: The Steepest 5.9 in Eldorado Canyon

Futile Laments offers a raw encounter with Eldorado Canyon’s wild side, standing out as one of the more demanding single-pitch trad climbs in the area. Right from the approach to the base at Wind Tower’s south face, the route sets a tone of understated challenge balanced with classic Eldo character. The climbing begins with a runout section through moderate 5.7 terrain, but this is merely a prelude to the steep and technical crux that will test your patience and technique. King's X, a notorious feature to negotiate early on, requires a precise 40-foot ascent where gear placements thin and trust in your pro becomes crucial.

The core of the route is a leftward step away from the more obvious path, leading into an acute dihedral that feels almost like a natural channel cutting through the rock. Here, the climbing unlocks into jams, stemming, and calculated moves around overhanging flakes and roof features. Pulling through the roof demands a blend of strength and finesse, leaning on jugs and hand jams that feel alive under your fingers. Movement choices—whether to balance left on face holds or push right along the arete—keep your muscles and mind locked in.

This section features the steepest sustained 5.9 climbing Eldorado has to offer, demanding careful gear placements ranging from small cams to pins tucked near the arete. Beyond the roof, the route drifts upward and left again toward the Wind Tower’s main arete, where a final stretch of easier, more runout climbing eases the tension, though it never lets you fully relax. The ledge topping out near Boulder Direct’s end provides a breath of relief, a hard-earned perch to soak in Eldo’s towering walls and high desert skies.

Preparation is key: a full Eldo rack including stoppers, RPs, and cams up to 3 inches will keep you secure through the cruxes. The old angle protecting the 5.10b moves, though vintage, still holds firm, backed by smaller cams where space is tight. Approach on well-worn trails keeps access straightforward but expect the rock’s sharp edges and high-desert dryness to demand durable shoes and ample hydration.

Set your timing to avoid the full mid-day sun; the south face bakes in afternoon heat during summer, so morning or late afternoon climbs offer cooler conditions and better friction. The route’s exposure also means wind can push in unexpectedly, adding a brisk edge to your ascent. Overall, Futile Laments blends a gritty physical test with the raw beauty and solitude of Eldorado’s less-traveled corners, rewarding focused climbers with an experience both demanding and thoroughly memorable.

Climber Safety

Expect runout sequences in the easier 5.7 sections; thoughtful gear placement early on is vital to avoid long falls. The rock at the crux can hold solid protection but requires careful inspection. Approach carefully and be mindful of loose rock near the arete.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length170 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun on the south face.

Bring a full rack including small cams and RPs for secure placements.

Watch for sharp rock edges; sturdy shoes will protect your feet.

Hydrate well — Eldorado’s dry climate can sneak up on you.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels on the stiffer side, particularly due to the steep, overhanging roof section, which demands clean technique and confident gear placement. The PG13 tag warns of some runout stretches on easier terrain, but the crux moves themselves hang on the more solid end of the 5.9 spectrum. Climbers familiar with Eldo’s classic moderate routes will find this a challenging step up in sustained difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Standard Eldo rack recommended: stoppers, RPs, cams from very small sizes up to 3 inches. Crux gear includes an older angle piece backed by a tiny cam for the 5.10b move, and a 2.5-inch cam covering the 5.9 crux.

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Tags

trad
5.9
roof
arete
wind tower
technical
runout
single pitch