"Freemason presents a focused 80-foot trad pitch blending ledges, grooves, and slab with a bolt-protected crux near the top. It’s a solid test of balance and protection skills within the quiet canyons of Staunton State Park."
The Freemason route at Staunton Rocks offers a compact but rewarding trad climb that invites you to navigate a blend of ledges, face holds, and slabby sections within Colorado's rugged South Platte corridor. Starting with solid ledges that provide secure footing, the climb quickly shifts to a series of chickenheads and grooves that demand steady balance and thoughtful gear placement. These features give way to a slab that tests your friction and mental focus. The climb’s defining moment lies at a bolt-protected crux, a rare bit of fixed hardware amidst primarily traditional protection, providing a brief but meaningful challenge.
Situated within the Canyon Amphitheater near The Pooka, the route benefits from the raw, natural character of Staunton State Park. The granite’s texture is coarse but reliable, offering enough friction to engage confidently during delicate moves. The average length of 80 feet means the climb can be completed in a single pitch, making it a perfect option for a half-day outing or a warm-up on your path to more demanding objectives in the area.
Protection calls for versatility: a large piece upfront to secure the initial moves, then a steady rack of smaller cams up to a #1 Black Diamond to cover the face and slab sections. The presence of a single bolt near the top helps ease the psychological pressure at the crux but does not diminish the importance of careful gear placement throughout. Anchoring is straightforward with chains installed at the top.
Access to Staunton Rocks is reasonably direct, though the approach involves hiking through forested sections with typical mountain terrain, requiring solid footwear and hydration. Early starts are advisable to take advantage of morning shade on the south-facing walls and avoid afternoon heat during Colorado’s warmer months. The setting’s quiet atmosphere encourages a focused climb while surrounding vistas hint at the expansive wilderness just beyond the canyon’s edge.
Whether you’re stepping up from easy trad routes or looking for a single-pitch challenge with technical variety, Freemason offers an engaging mix of subtle moves and solid protection. This climb’s approachable rating of 5.8 is honest but complemented by a crux that demands precise technique, making it a rewarding choice for climbers honing their trad skills in a striking environment.
Watch your gear placements on the slab—small cams can be tricky to secure and the terrain demands precise footwork to avoid slips. The bolt at the crux provides some security but relying solely on it is unwise. Approach trails are moderately steep, so be sure your shoes have solid grip and carry enough water.
Start early to benefit from morning shade on the south-facing wall.
Wear sticky shoes that handle slab friction confidently.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams with a larger piece for the bottom.
Hydrate well—trail access involves steady uphill hiking through forested terrain.
Start with a large cam for the initial ledges, then use smaller gear up to a #1 Black Diamond through facey chickenheads and grooves. Clip the bolt near the top and finish on chain anchors.
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