"Fred the Crack is a tough, compact trad climb on Sunshine Wall offering a hands-on engagement with Colorado’s rugged cathedral-style cracks. Its short length conceals the need for solid gear placements and careful footwork, making it a practical challenge set against a raw mountain backdrop."
Fred the Crack at Sunshine Wall is a compact yet gritty introduction to traditional climbing within the dramatic Cathedral Spires area near South Platte, Colorado. The route begins awkwardly, slogging through a narrow vegetated gully where the approach tests patience more than technique. Once you spot the flat ledge, the climb opens up into a straightforward hand-to-fist crack that rises directly above, inviting climbers to engage with the rock's textured character. The crack demands a firm grip and body awareness, with feet searching for balance on rough edges and tiny holds. As you reach the chockstone — a natural rock feature lodged midway — the route slices left into a thinner crack that requires down-sizing your gear and sharpening your moves.
Although the middle portion shifts into a more playful rhythm, the limited gear placements here mean a heightened sense of focus is needed to secure protection and move confidently. Larger cams from size BD #3 to #5 are essential for the earlier sections, with smaller pieces needed as the crack narrows and options become sparse. Slinging the chockstone is critical, providing a reliable anchor point on this otherwise gear-stretched passage.
The descent stands out as an adventure itself: an entertaining rappel using older slings fixed to a ledge, dropping down to the base on the right side of the start. This adds a layer of complexity, so familiarize yourself with your rappel setup before committing. The climb is brief at 100 feet but delivers a concentrated experience of traditional climbing where route-finding and gear management define success.
From an environmental perspective, the surroundings offer a rugged mountain vibe. The rock’s weathered texture contrasts with the patches of resilient greenery clinging to the gully walls, while distant pine forests hint at the broader wilderness. Timing your climb to avoid afternoon heat or wet conditions will ensure the crack stays grippy and safe.
Ultimately, Fred the Crack challenges climbers to trust their gear judgment and hands-on skills over flashy moves, creating a memorable slice of traditional climbing amid Colorado’s vast landscape. It is ideal for those sharpening their crack climbing or easing into the Cathedral Spires’ diverse offerings, blending a practical test with the rough charm of the Sunshine Wall.
The rappel anchors use older slings on a ledge that demands careful inspection before use. The vegetated gully on the approach can be slippery when wet; tread cautiously to avoid mishaps before the climb starts.
Scout the initial vegetated gully carefully to avoid wasting energy on unnecessary scrambling.
Check your rappel gear thoroughly; the anchors rely on older slings that may need reinforcement.
Plan your climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid the hottest sun exposure.
Bring a range of cams covering both large wide cracks and smaller thin placements.
Bring a set of large cams, particularly BD #3 through #5, for the wider crack section. Smaller cams are necessary for the top thin crack after the chockstone. Don’t forget a sling to secure the chockstone anchor midway up.
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