"For Whom the Bell Tolls offers a compact single-pitch climb where trad gear meets sport bolts on Colorado’s Hemingway Wall. Technical slab climbing with a distinctive bulge crux challenges climbers seeking a steady, manageable route with varied terrain in the heart of Staunton State Park."
For Whom the Bell Tolls rewards climbers with a compact but thoughtfully variegated pitch that blends the accessibility of sport climbing with the subtle demands of trad protection. Situated on the rugged Hemingway Wall, this route rises about 170 feet, offering a focused taste of Colorado’s Staunton State Park granite, where exposed slabs meet friction climbs and a modest bulge crux. The approach places you near the heart of the South Platte climbing corridor, a region known for its disciplined lines and open granite pockets that dare you to stay alert and precise.
As you begin, the route veers just right of a distinct black streak roughly 25 feet left of the neighboring Farewell To Arms, an easy landmark for those scanning the wall. The first moves require a confident hands-on grip to ascend a trenchant ramp, with minimal opportunities to place pro early on, creating a quiet tension before you reach the main bolt. From here, the climbing twists through a bulge that forms the crux—the section where skillful clipping and body positioning become crucial. This bulge demands respect, yet it does not overextend; after pulling through it, the cliff opens up into a low-angle slab where you can read the rock with more freedom.
The line’s finish invites climbers to pick their route along open terrain where difficulty stabilizes, though a left-angling crack provides a welcome option for additional protection and security amid the sunlit granite. This mix of route-finding and moderate moves creates a rhythm to the climb that balances adventure and assurance. The belay station sits comfortably on gear about five feet below the wall’s summit ridge, giving ample room for a secure anchor and a moment to appreciate the park’s raw beauty.
Descending involves moving right across a scree-filled gully before relying on the two solid Farewell to Arms bolts, which allow a straightforward 200-foot rappel back to the base. The ease of descent contrasts the climb’s technical pockets, underscoring the route’s suitability for climbers looking to sharpen their trad-sport hybrid skills without getting bogged down in overly committing terrain.
Expect to be in full climbing shoes as friction on the slab sections demands precise footwork. Bringing a rack up to a #1 Camalot alongside climbing shoes and quickdraws for the single bolt will keep you prepared for the gear placements and the bolt clipping at the bulge. Early morning or late afternoon are ideal windows to avoid direct sun exposure, as the rock absorbs heat quickly amid Colorado’s high-altitude sun.
This pitch is a fitting test for those seeking a moderate climb with technical variety rather than pure endurance or steep overhangs. Its approachable grade of 5.8 masks a meaningful crux that requires calculated composure. More than a simple tick against the list, For Whom the Bell Tolls invites you to engage with the rock—reading, weighing, and moving with purpose—offering a taste of Staunton’s granite character that sits quietly confident in its reliability and challenge.
Watch for loose scree on the descent path and avoid unroped downclimbing across the gully. The climb offers limited pro early on, so clipping the bolt at the bulge safely is essential to prevent ground falls. Always double-check gear placements near the belay.
Start just right of the black streak to avoid confusion with neighboring routes.
Early morning climbs provide cooler temperatures and better friction on the slab.
Secure your belay about five feet below the top; anchors are gear-based, so double-check placements.
Use Farewell To Arms anchors for a safe 200-foot rappel; don’t venture down scree gullies unroped.
One well-placed bolt protects the crux bulge, but bring a rack that includes gear up to a #1 Camalot to cover the initial ramp and the left-angling crack near the top. Slab sections rely heavily on precise footwork rather than protection.
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