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Excitable Boy: A Compact Alpine Trad Test in Pike's Peak

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
runout
face climbing
mantle crux
sparse protection
alpine
multi-pitch
Pikes Peak
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Excitable Boy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Excitable Boy offers two pitches of sustained alpine trad climbing just outside Colorado Springs. With a crux mantle above sparse protection, this route sharpens your slab skills in a high-altitude setting where focus and finesse meet exposed face climbing."

Excitable Boy: A Compact Alpine Trad Test in Pike's Peak

Excitable Boy carves a bold line on the sheer faces above Colorado Springs, offering two pitches of alpine trad climbing that challenge both your technique and nerve. This 200-foot route weaves through steep, run-out sections where friction and precise footwork take center stage, creating a sustained dance on slab and face holds. The route’s defining moment arrives on the second pitch—about 15 feet above the last bolt—where a demanding mantle move demands commitment amid thin protection and subtle edges. The drilled belays, each anchored with two solid Stardrive bolts, provide reliable staging areas but remind you there’s little shelter in this high-altitude environment.

Set against the backdrop of Pike’s Peak’s rugged expanse, the rock is weathered yet firm, its face etched with streaks of lichen and the faint echoes of wind. As you ascend, the air thins and the panoramic views tighten focus, pulling your gaze across the range toward Colorado Springs below. The climb moves through an exposure-rich zone, where every move requires measured focus and steady breathing. Protection is sparse but strategic—four drilled bolts spaced evenly between pitches—relying on small cams and wires for supplementary coverage, especially on the second pitch where the rock’s features thin.

This route demands precision gear placement and patience, making it an excellent test piece for intermediate climbers ready to step up their alpine game in a setting that blends adventure with stark challenge. Plan to approach early in the day for firm rock temperatures and steady conditions. Footwear with sticky rubber and confident slab footing will make a crucial difference, as will hydration and layered clothing to adapt to brisk mountain winds.

The access is straightforward but not to be rushed. A short trek from trailheads near Colorado Springs brings you to the base where the line begins its ascent—allowing time to absorb the shifting light and prepare mentally for the run-out nature of this classic route. Descending is accomplished through a well-established rappel from the top, skirting loose terrain that demands caution and deliberate movement.

Excitable Boy stands out as a compact but potent offering on Pike’s Peak, delivering alpine excitement without the logistical complexities of longer climbs. It’s an ideal route for climbers seeking to hone trad skills in a dramatic, elevated environment where each move matters and every foothold is earned.

Climber Safety

Run-out sections require focused gear placements and steady nerves. The mantle crux above the last bolt on the second pitch is an especially committing move—spotting loose rock or preparing for falls here is critical. Descending involves rappels where rope drag and loose rock can pose hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch firm rock and cooler conditions.

Use sticky rubber shoes for confidence on friction slabs.

Bring a full small-cam rack up to #0.3 and a comprehensive wire set.

Prepare for brisk winds and rapidly changing weather on the summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- X
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- X grade hints at technical moves on slab with a tight crux that elevates the risk beyond a straight fifth-class climb. The mantle on pitch two upholds the difficulty, demanding precise body positioning and bold commitment where protection is minimal. Compared to nearby moderate trad routes, Excitable Boy leans into runout friction climbing with a crux that can feel stiff to those unaccustomed to slab exposure.

Gear Requirements

Four drilled bolts provide key protection points, two per pitch, but small cams and wires will be valuable on the more exposed second pitch where the crux resides. Bring a trad rack focused on smaller protection to navigate run-out sections safely.

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Tags

runout
face climbing
mantle crux
sparse protection
alpine
multi-pitch
Pikes Peak