HomeClimbingDragonglass

Dragonglass at Staunton Rocks

Denver, Colorado United States
sport climbing
single pitch
granite
exposed
sunny climbs
approachable difficulty
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dragonglass
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dragonglass offers a concise, challenging single-pitch sport climb at Staunton Rocks. Its approachable 5.8 grade hides a subtle choice of paths—each shaping the experience with distinct holds and movement. Perfect for a quick yet rewarding climb with Colorado’s stunning landscape as your backdrop."

Dragonglass at Staunton Rocks

Staunton Rocks offers an intimate climbing experience with Dragonglass, a single-pitch sport route that tests your judgment as much as your technique. This 50-foot climb, secured with seven lead bolts and capped by a solid two-bolt anchor, sits within the robust backdrop of Staunton State Park and overlooks the South Platte River corridor. The rock feels alive here; grips shift from textured edges to smooth faces, challenging climbers to adapt their moves continually.

The route’s character hinges on your chosen line. Take the straightforward path, and the climb functions as a solid 5.8 with manageable holds and balanced protection, allowing fluid movement and focus on footwork. But veer off to the alternative sequence, and you encounter a stretch that demands more precise balance and core tension—this subtle variation nudges the difficulty upward, offering a rewarding layer for those seeking a little extra.

With just one pitch, Dragonglass prioritizes quality over quantity. The rock’s exposure invites the western sun during afternoon climbs, warming its surface and drying any lingering moisture from morning dew. The approach is a short walk through open forest and granite slabs, just enough to prime your mind and muscles for the challenge ahead. Stand atop the route’s anchor, and you catch glimpses of rugged, pine-dotted ridges and the river carving through the valley with its steady pulse, as if daring you to return for more.

Climbers should come prepared with sport-specific shoes for grip and chalk to manage sweaty hands in the sun. Hydration is key; while the park accesses are straightforward, water sources are limited on the trail. Morning or late afternoon climbs offer the most comfortable temperatures, avoiding the intense midday sun on exposed rock.

Dragonglass is perfect for climbers who want a compact, focused experience with a subtle challenge. It’s approachable enough for confident beginners stepping into 5.8 territory yet offers enough nuance to engage more seasoned climbers looking to sharpen their technique. Its setting within Staunton State Park provides more than just climbing; it’s a chance to immerse yourself in Colorado’s high-country landscape and the calm rhythm of the South Platte basin.

Climber Safety

Although the protection is straightforward with seven bolts, some moves require delicate footwork on small holds. Climbers should be mindful of sun exposure, which can heat the rock significantly and cause fatigue or dehydration. The short approach includes uneven granite slabs—watch your step to avoid slips on the way in and out.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid the hottest sun on the rock.

Bring plenty of water; there are no reliable water sources nearby.

Double-check your quickdraw placements on the bolts to maintain smooth clipping.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for the best traction on granite edges.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Dragonglass offers a comfortable challenge with a slight technical bump if you choose the trickier line. The rating feels true to style for Colorado sport climbs—accessible but not too soft. The crux revolves around maintaining balance on smaller edges, rewarding precise footwork. Compared to local routes, it sits well for intermediate climbers advancing from beginner climbs.

Gear Requirements

This route is protected by seven lead bolts, topped with a two-bolt anchor suitable for clean rappels. Sport climbing shoes and chalk are recommended to maintain grip on the textured granite. Rope length of 60 meters is sufficient for the pitch and descent.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
granite
exposed
sunny climbs
approachable difficulty