"Dog Star climbs the northeast face of McHenry’s Peak with a blend of solid corner pitches and alpine exposure. This 800-foot traditional route mixes manageable midsections with a demanding upper wall, offering a genuine Rockies challenge for seasoned trad climbers."
Dog Star stretches over 800 feet of alpine rock on McHenry’s northeast face, presenting a compelling challenge for those seeking a traditional route with a lasting sense of adventure. Starting low on the imposing triangular buttress, the climb begins with a solid corner pitch that demands focused attention — its cracks and edges offer secure holds and placements but reveal the need for steady footwork and clear route-finding. As you move upward, the terrain eases briefly, delivering a midsection that allows a moment to breathe while staying connected to the mountain’s raw energy. But the climb saves its most demanding moments for the upper rock, where a steep, jagged corner emerges roughly two-thirds of the way up; this pitch forces commitment and precise gear placements as the rock leans into the climb. Variations near the top offer a chance for personalization and challenge, yet the original line finishes at the very apex, letting you stand on a commanding shoulder above Glacier Gorge and the surrounding alpine basin.
The route carries history with it — its first ascent was forged during the hottest stretch of summer, the so-called dog days, as if the star lending the route its name was pushing climbers to test their limits alongside the sun’s heat. The rock itself is reliable, generally solid and broken into features that support a traditional rack well. Expect standard gear sizes for protection, though knowing how to confidently place nuts and cams in less obvious cracks will serve you well. The climb rounds out at a moderate 5.8 rating — accessible to experienced trad climbers but not one to take lightly, especially considering alpine weather and approach demands.
Getting to the base involves a well-trodden trek through Glacier Gorge, rewarding climbers with a wild landscape punctuated by shimmering streams and dense forest patches. The approach is straightforward but calls for respect toward the changing mountain environment. Once committed, Dog Star radiates a quiet strength, its vertical lines mingling the thrill of sustained climbing with the vastness of Rocky Mountain National Park’s rugged alpine beauty. It’s a route that encourages preparation: bring water and layered clothing to navigate both sun exposure and cooler high-elevation air, and plan your ascent to avoid afternoon storms common in summer. Whether you're ticking off alpine routes or searching for a route that tests steady hands and solid protection instincts, Dog Star stands as a worthy expedition against the raw sky.
Watch for loose rock on the upper pitches, especially near the steep corner sections. Weather can change rapidly — be prepared to retreat or shelter in case of storms. The alpine environment calls for careful pace management to avoid late-day hazards.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.
Bring layered clothing; temperatures can vary widely during the climb.
Hydrate well before and during the approach through Glacier Gorge.
Scout the upper corner pitch carefully — protection requires precise gear placement.
A standard traditional rack covers this route effectively. Steady placement skills for nuts and cams will be essential, especially in the upper steep corner where protection spots tighten.
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