Dominating the northern shoulder of Glacier Gorge in Colorado's Rocky Mountain National Park, McHenry's Peak stands as a rugged sentinel that commands respect and rewards climbers with an alpine adventure rich in texture and challenge. At 13,327 feet, this peak offers an immersive experience defined by its sharp ridges and strong connections to Arrowhead Peak and nearby Chiefshead Mountain. The terrain hints at a climbing playground rich with classic mixed routes and adventurous rock faces of solid quality. This is a place where boldness and careful planning weave together.

Approaching McHenry's Peak is a straightforward journey—head northwest from the shelf above Black Lake, and the peak reveals itself clearly against the alpine skyline. The trail toward it offers typical Rocky Mountain National Park terrain with high alpine forested sections giving way to rockier, exposed areas closer to the summit. This approach is not only scenic but primes climbers for the adventure ahead while conditioning them for the climbing challenges on the ridge.

The climbs here offer a varied selection for climbers with differing tastes and abilities. Among the established classics, the NE Ridge or Arrowhead Arete earns acclaim for its engaging sequences and spectacular ridge exposure, rated at a solid 3.5 stars. The West Ridge/Powell Traverse and the SE Ridge similarly attract climbers looking for classic mixed climbing routes in a pristine alpine setting. For those seeking a tougher test on rock, Dream of Babylon Burning at 5.10b stands out as a challenging pitch characterized by technical moves and solid rock quality.

McHenry's Peak climbs are a blend of mixed and adventure rock, meaning climbers should prepare for a variety of terrain often shifting between solid granite slabs and snow or ice depending on the season. The attitude here rewards those who come prepared with versatile protection gear suited for variable conditions, as well as competent route-finding skills.

Seasonal closures tied to important raptor nesting habitats influence access from mid-February through July 31. These closures primarily affect off-trail travel above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail and the Cathedral Wall area. Respecting these closures is vital to maintaining access and protecting the fragile alpine ecosystem. Check the Rocky Mountain National Park area closures website before planning your climb to avoid conflicts with wildlife management.

Weather here follows typical high alpine patterns with considerable variability; summer offers the prime climbing season with long daylight hours and generally stable conditions, while winter and spring bring snow and cold temperatures that elevate hazards. Afternoon thunderstorms are common during summer months—start early, move efficiently, and remain alert.

Climbers should anticipate a multi-pitch experience on many routes, with challenges ranging from technical crack and face climbing to exposed ridge scrambling. The rock typically leans towards sound granite, providing strong holds and clean protection opportunities, but conditions can change rapidly at this elevation.

The descent usually involves carefully retracing your route or walking off via established trails lower down Glacier Gorge. There are no major rappel anchor points on many routes, so bringing down gear efficiently and being prepared for a lengthy walk out is essential.

In sum, McHenry's Peak captures the essence of alpine adventure climbing with a practical edge. It demands respect for its environment, a solid foundation in mixed climbing techniques, and readiness for fluctuating weather. For climbers drawn to the Rocky Mountain high country and eager to explore an area that combines high exposure, varied terrain, and memorable routes like the Arrowhead Arete and Dream of Babylon Burning, McHenry’s Peak stands ready to reward ambition and caution in equal measure.