"Shameless Tower rises prominently along a ridge descending from McHenry’s in Rocky Mountain National Park, offering climbers an alpine setting with solid, classic routes like Child's Play and Kidnapper Van. Access involves a steep lakeside hike and careful navigation through talus, rewarding those who seek authentic high-elevation climbing away from crowds."
Rising at 12,440 feet, Shameless Tower stands as a compelling objective for climbers seeking a blend of alpine challenge and accessible rock quality within Rocky Mountain National Park's Glacier Gorge area. This spire is the lower of two prominent features descending from McHenry’s, linking towards Arrowhead in a rugged ridge setting that rewards effort with striking views and a high-country atmosphere.
The approach begins with a trail to Black Lake, offering a scenic hike before the more demanding cross of the lake’s outlet. From here, a northern route traces the lake’s edge, transitioning quickly to a steep grass hill punctuated by rock steps. At the summit, a talus field emerges—where climbers can either cross directly or skirt right along more stable terrain to reach the rock base. This approach combines a touch of route-finding with natural beauty: alpine shrubs, crisp air, and alpine contours prime the mind for climbing.
Shameless Tower’s climbing routes total nine, ranging in character though none are expansive multi-pitch giants. Among the classics, Child's Play aka Yellowbelly (5.10a) stands out for its sustained technical moves and moderate difficulty, favored by those advancing beyond beginner routes. Kidnapper Van (5.11) offers a stiffer challenge without veering into overly committing territory. These routes embody practical alpine climbing with solid rock, allowing for focused efforts on technique and movement within a high-elevation setting.
Climbing here is timed carefully due to seasonal closures protecting raptor habitats from mid-February through July 31. Off-trail travel is restricted above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail, with variable closures depending on nesting activity. This underscores a need for climbers to remain informed and respect wildlife regulations, blending adventure with conservation.
RMNP’s overall character weaves together wilderness and accessibility — Shameless Tower exemplifies this. The climbs do not crowd but still deliver a strong connection to the alpine environment, with cooler temperatures and thinner mountain air adding a physical edge to every move. Unlike some front-country crags, this area requires preparation and attention to the conditions, keeping climbers present and engaged.
Gear considerations revolve around traditional protection—bring a rack tuned for alpine rock, including cams suited to variable cracks and a firm set of nuts. The rock quality, while generally good, benefits from solid placements rather than reliance on fixed gear, emphasizing self-sufficiency. Gloves for brush on approach and sturdy boots are recommended to negotiate talus and grassy slope safely.
Daytime conditions vary, but the face aspects favor climbs that receive sun in the mid to late morning, cooling off by afternoon. Late summer and early fall provide the most stable weather windows before winter’s deep chill returns. Climbers descending the spire typically walk off via the approach terrain, though route-finding on talus requires caution to avoid loose rock sections.
Within the broader RMNP rock climbing scene, Shameless Tower offers a refreshing break from more crowded sectors. Its modest elevation gain on approach and manageable climb lengths make it well suited for those who want alpine exposure without committing to multi-pitch wilderness climbs. It forms a solid entry into the high peaks circuit, combining a taste of serious mountain climbing with practical logistics.
As you lace up boots and chalk your hands, Shameless Tower invites you to embrace high-altitude climbing’s demands and rewards. The blend of sweeping alpine views, carefully forged routes, and an immersive natural setting creates a climb that is both grounding and invigorating. Respect the seasons, pack smart, and step into an experience that challenges your skills while opening your senses to Colorado’s majestic mountain wilderness.
The approach involves crossing a lake outlet and navigating steep grassy slopes and a talus field, so wear sturdy boots and exercise caution on loose rock and uneven terrain. Pay close attention to seasonal closures that protect raptor nesting areas—respect restricted zones to avoid penalties and preserve the environment.
Check seasonal closures from mid-February through July 31 to avoid nesting raptor restrictions.
Approach early in the day to enjoy sun on the climbs before afternoon cooling.
Be prepared for a steep approach involving lake crossing and talus navigation.
Carry a traditional rack as fixed protection is limited and placements require care.
Approach involves a trail hike to Black Lake, a lake outlet crossing, and a steep grassy hill with rock steps. Prepare for a talus field crossing—choose a direct line or contour right for more stable footing. Traditional rack including cams and nuts recommended; fixed gear is limited. Gloves and sturdy boots help on brush and loose rock.
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