"Dessert carves a gritty, four-pitch path just left of the Bulge on Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall. With challenging protection and a 5.9 crux pitch that demands focus, this route offers a raw, technical trad experience for those who prefer a climb with edge and character."
Stepping onto the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park, Dessert presents itself as a climb that demands respect for its unpolished character and technical grit. Situated just left of the Bulge, this four-pitch trad route stretches about 300 feet, weaving through worn rock and open space that tests both mental and physical focus. If you’re looking for a polished, straightforward procedure, Dessert might rattle your nerves — its reputation for loose rock and runout sections puts a premium on careful gear placements and trust in your skills.
The approach to Dessert gently leads you into a quieter corner of Eldorado’s rugged sandstone cliffs, where the rock seems to tell stories of past ascents through its rough texture and scattered fixed gear. The first two pitches lean toward moderate difficulty, hovering around 5.8. Starting from the lower Bulge area, you’ll climb mostly positive holds with a mix of sidepulls and undercling moves, navigating a narrow ramp that arcs out to the left. Protection here calls for careful consideration—placements can be thin and sometimes unpredictable, requiring secure doubles or triples of traditional cams, especially near delicate edges. Rope drag is a common challenge early on, so plan your slings generously.
Pitch three is the defining moment of Dessert, rated 5.9 and offering a gritty test of proficiency. The recommended beta invites you to traverse right from the belay bolts before ascending a difficult wall that demands precise footwork and commitment. An alternative, less consistent variation involves moving directly upward through fragile holds and an overhanging bulge with limited placements—an option that increases the route’s seriousness. Either way, this pitch demands respect for its sparse pro and exposed climbing, with a crux that pushes climbers to steady their nerves and gear well. The rock’s character—sometimes flaky, at times powdery—reminds you that Dessert is more about reading the line than pure muscle power.
The final pitch, less technical at around 5.7, still keeps you engaged as you negotiate a downward sloping flake and an overhang before easing into easier terrain that leads to the top anchors. You’ll want a stable rack that includes cams up to #3.5 (Camalot size 3) and a strong set of nuts. Long runners and double-length slings come highly recommended to manage potential swing and reduce rope drag.
Descending from Dessert involves a diagonal downclimb heading north toward a large trough, with a series of traverses and drops back to the ground. This exit requires attention—in lower light or after rain, the sloping ledges can catch you off guard. Timing your climb for dryer, cooler hours reduces risk and preserves your focus on the route’s technical aspects.
Dessert's rough edges and sparse protection may not appeal to every climber, but for those who embrace a route with character and challenge, it offers a memorable day on El Dorado’s less trafficked walls. Prepare to engage fully with each pitch, bring micro to large cams, and keep your head cool on the runout crux sections. This is a climb that rewards patience, respect for the rock, and a willingness to manage exposure with skill and composure.
Exercise caution on pitch three’s crux — protection is scarce and the rock can be loose or powdery, increasing the potential for falls. Long falls onto runout terrain require confident placements and precise movement. The descent involves tricky downclimbing and traverses; avoid it when the rock is wet or after rain.
Extend slings generously to minimize rope drag on zigzagging pitches.
Bring double-length runners especially for the crux pitch to protect potential long falls.
Plan your climb during dry and cool weather to reduce risk on crumbly holds.
Approach involves a moderate hike; allow 30 minutes from the parking area at Eldorado Canyon SP.
Dessert requires a single or double rack of cams from micro sizes up to a 3.5 Camalot (#3), supplemented by nuts ranging from brass to large stoppers. Given the generous runouts and occasionally brittle rock, long and double-length runners are essential to reduce rope drag and keep falls controlled. Bolted anchors are present on most pitches except the top, which calls for solid cam placements.
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